Anyone Successfully Go from Floor Standers to Bookshelf Monitors w/ Subs?


My system is in a Large Living room which opens to dining room & Kitchen. I figure about 6k cu ft. I have Silverline Sonata speakers now with subs. Unfortunately I did not build my addition when I should have 10-15 yrs ago. Now I'm not really up to the task. Too old & wore out. So I'd love to make the LR a prettier room for my wife. One thing we talked about was the large speakers, and possibly using Watkins Gen 4 monitors. But as good as they sound, I am concerned about the ability to fill the room, or at least my listening area. As I understand, it is about moving air. I cannot see how a 6.5 & 1 inch speaker can move as much as a 10, 7, 3 & 1 inch. So I am quite concerned about that. Right now, the system sounds very pleasing to both of us. We don't want to take a backward step but can live with a sideways step if it is more visually pleasing.

Has anyone made this kind of a step from floor standers to monitors, both with subs, in a large room, with success? Or am I thinking correctly about the small speakers inability to move the proper amount of air for the room size? Thanks for your help.

OH, FWIW, The addition may not be completely out of the picture. But it depends on whether I can get one of my previous sub contractors to do a large part of it. 
128x128artemus_5
Thanks for the answers so far. FWIW, I have 2 Sumiko S10 subs which are a clone of the Rel S5. they have Fiberglass Cones instead of metal (I believe that is correct). The speaker size and amps are the same size 12" & power 550 watts as well as their connection types. They are very easy to integrate and work well with my speakers now. I agree with Eric, in that integration is extremely important. 
I've also considered the Silverline Prelude Plus which are thin towers with 4 3 1/2" woofers/mids & soft dome tweeter. Supposedly go to 35hz. Yeah, mine were supposed to do 20hz. Also I have heard the Gen 4's and they are quite amazing for monitors. Bill Watkins was a master of bass who holds several patents including for the  Infinity-Watkins Dual Drive Woofers . The Gen 4's go to 41hz with great clarity. But again, the amount of air pushed is questionable
I have really been wanting to audition the Larsen 6 and 8 speakers. They can be (and are designed to) placed up against the front wall, have great bass, and throw up a wall of sound that sounds like a "live" performance, reviewers say. They are very room-friendly.

https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/larsen-model-62-loudspeaker

<< I felt it was important to drive the 6.2s with an amplifier priced more in line with the Larsens, and so I connected them to a $995 Parasound Halo A23. While there was some loss of tonal refinement and detail with the switch, the bass definitely improved. The Parasound puts out 200Wpc into 8 ohms as opposed to 60Wpc for the Passes. Clearly, these little speakers thrive on power; in fact, I later learned that John Larsen’s reference amplifier is a Gamut Di150 LE, which is rated at 180Wpc into 8 ohms. I then did something I wasn’t originally planning on doing—powering the 6.2s with my 200Wpc David Berning Quadrature Z monoblocks, an undeniably unlikely pairing as these amps cost roughly eight times the price of the speakers. The sonic result was amazing, including the bottom end. Bass and kick-drum had satisfying punch, and the organ in the Philadelphia Orchestra’s recording of the Saint-Saëns Symphony No. 3 on an Ondine SACD was majestically massive. Like many well-designed loudspeakers, the Larsen 6.2s will perform well with modestly priced amplification of high quality but also have the potential to sound even better with über-electronics.

The other opportunity to improve bass performance came when I ran a DSP room-correction calibration with the Anthem’s ARC software. Inspection of the frequency response curves revealed some irregularities from around 30 to 400Hz—a phenomenon I’ve noted with most loudspeakers I’ve measured in this fashion. Employing the calculated room correction helped to smooth out the bass response considerably, on paper and to my ears. The lesson is this: The up-against-the-wall placement of Larsen loudspeakers offers a definite advantage in terms of bass output compared to free-standing speakers in a typical domestic environment. But that doesn’t preclude room-related irregularities in bass response that may require attention with either physical acoustical treatments or electronic room correction.

For its size, the Larsen 6.2 is a definite overachiever when it comes to bass output and dynamics that won’t leave most listeners uninvolved—whether with late-Romantic symphonic repertoire or energetic pop and rock. If you’re going for realistic dB levels with Boris Godunov or Daft Punk, you’re going to be disappointed. For many, though, the 6.2s will effectively transmit the power and excitement of large-scale music of all sorts because of all the things it does so well. What we have in the Larsen 6.2 and other Larsen models is the full realization of a decades-long effort to understand the behavior of real rooms and to leverage those observations in the design of a loudspeaker that will play music with a minimum of coloration and distortion. If your loudspeaker budget is anything up to $5k, the Larsen 6.2 deserves a very, very long listen.>>

I've successfully gone from floor standards to the Fritz Carbon 7 SE mkii and and much more pleased with the more accurate, tight base in my 18 x 15 room then I ever have been with floor standers.
Dear @artemus_5 : Normally you don’t need to worry about the monitors can fulfill your room because will does it even more than enough.

You have rigth now a " big " true problem with your Sonata speakers. Yes I know that you like it but this " you like it " just does not helps to disappears the problem.

Problem name is IMD ( InterModulationDistortion. ) high levels ( that you are accustom to. ) and THD too and the problem comes because the manufacturer designer choosed as crossover frequency 1.5khz and this means that that driver/woofer handled frequencies as low as 25hz all the way over 1.5khz.

We don’t add a paiir of self powered true subwoofers to achieve lower bass levels, this is an advantage to integrates subs but the main issue is to lower the IMD/THD of your room/system and this always will has a rewards because you will listening better quality performance levels with a lot lower distortion levels.

Here you can read the why of my take about:


https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/do-you-think-you-need-a-subwoofer/post?postid=310058#310058


You can do it with your today Sonatas crossing two a pair of TRUE self powered subwoofers that today normally comes with an integrated software and microphone to make the rigth system integration.

Or you can do it two with these excellent monitors:

http://www.silverlineaudio.com/main/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=46&Item...

That’s why I posted to the gentleman that asked for the Wilson Alexx V one alternative with monitors/subs that with any single doubt will outperforms any full range passive speakers.
Unfortunatelly the overall knowledge levels on the specific issue is lower than what we think and not even " professionals " reviewers as M.fremer has it when for years is using full range Wilson speakers. Yes he is wrong when does it and the overall full range speaker owners could achieve good rewards if just think/learn how to outperforms what they have rigth know with a really small investment on monitors/subs alternative. That gentleman on the Wilson V instead to ask for a better alternative just wants to follows behind what he is accustom too even if it’s not the best path for him.

High Quality room/system levels is not about just money but mainly about knowledge levels.


Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

The short answer is yes. The helpful answer is probably much more complex.

If you want to use a monitor you will want to design the system so the subs do the heavy lifting. IOW the higher the crossover point the better. 

Your concern about a 6.5” woofer being able fill that large of space is legit. Speaker makers can design a very small box and cone to cycle quite low but I have yet to hear one do it at realistic volume levels.

In my opinion, depending on what types of music you listen to and how loud you listen to them, I would cross the subs at no lower than 80 Hz and preferably closer to 120 Hz and if you really like it loud probably higher than that.