Speaker Cables

The essential idea is to use less powerful but preferable amp for mids and highs (much less power needs.

Then use a more powerful amp dedicated for the bass.

The mixture of low powered Tubes combined with a high powered SS amp for Bass fitting this scenario best in my mind, i.e. the only reason I would try it.

This presumes the speakers are full range, not needing a sub which can be self-powered, essentially the same thing.

One thing to keep in mind: a crossover somewhere to First remove the bass frequencies from the low powered amp and thus remove the need to make bass from the tweeters and mid drivers is needed.
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Raven says bass is 65% of the power need ’normally’. (they have a built in crossover)

"The Avian MK3 series high-pass feature provides an extraordinary advantage when using a subwoofer. By removing bass frequencies, it frees the power amp from 65% of the load it normally has to bear. This is like tripling the power of the amplifier in terms of its ability to drive speakers. It also frees smaller speakers from reproducing low bass frequencies which reduces speaker distortion. This is all achieved with a gentle 6db per octave slope making it easy to achieve a seamless and musical transition with any good quality subwoofer.

The cable itself should not have any sound characteristics.

When you talk about "cable synergy" in a system, that does not exist. 

If I were you I would test 2 pairs - 1 cheap and well built cable, and a more expensive cable for your choice. You should be listening for transparency. Does any octave sound elevated after a cable swap? 

Mogami, Canare, and Belden are the typical standard for Pros.

If you can tell a difference and one cable sounds better,  that's fine.

“When you talk about "cable synergy" in a system, that does not exist.”

I don’t agree with this at all...if you believe cables makes a difference then cable synergy is just as important as any other component in the system. For example, a cable with silver conductor can be just the right antidote for dull sounding systems. And in some systems, cable with silver conductor can make your system unlistenable. I have been there, done that!

ProAc D30RsA speakers are quite neutral / natural sounding so I recommend speaker cable with PC-OCC copper metallurgy. Bi-wire vs jumper is matter of debate, I say if your speakers and amp allows bi-wire configuration, I would try both ways i.e. shot gun configuration and jumpers and decide if you hear any difference between the two. 

@erastof,

Check out following brands that won’t break the bank,
Audio Envy ~ NV-SP9
Audio Sensibility ~ Testament
Zavfino ~ Nova

One of the problems is that different people appreciate different sound. Also, the overall sound you get is the result of all the components together. For quit a while in my early days I bought some very high quality interconnects and speaker cables and they made my system sound terrible ... too harsh and trebly. Those were Transparent Audio. It wasn’t the interconnects, it was my system. Years later after several upgrades I pulled out my old Transparent and they were wonderful. All my interconnects are now Transparent Ultra Gen 5. They are... well, transparent. So, you have consider the overall sound of all of your equipment and speakers together when making a choice. If you want to hear what your system sounds like, I highly recommend Transparent. I believe they are second highest selling high end after WireWorld. There is really good reasons to stick with the big brands... Audio Quest is the third. Ample reviews, proven record, resale value... tested value to cost ratio.
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Now is when someone will chime in and say, you shouldn’t use your interconnects as balance control... well, yeah but sometimes you have what you have and you can’t drop $100 grand to make the signal perfect. All copper tends to warm the system... is safe, all silver brings out details but your signal better not be harsh, or you are going to hear it! Silver coated copper can be ideal... if this sounds harsh to you, you have a real system problem! Do not... DO NOT... make a decision on cables or interconnects before you have a couple hundred hours of play on them... I have a cheap little system just to break stuff in.
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My experience is bi wiring isn’t a big enough factor to be worth it. Biamping only if you really love futzing with really complex problems with multiple variables after you have your ideal system. If all your components are not great, then don’t screw around with it... unless you think it is fun.

Common denominator: the supplied biwire stamped metal speaker links are links are crap....full stop.

Speakers cable brands: that is an alchemy between your system dependency vs. Your Personal taste. Only your bespoke personal hands on bakeoffs between  contenders and pretenders can  lead you down the  Yellow Brick Road to Audio OZ

Biamping speaker runs: Dual separate speaker pair runs is one thing, but I severe doubt your proposed standmounts would benefit from it.

Biwiring: that IS SPEAKER DEPENDENT as to whether biwires vs quality single runs with jumpers is better for your system.

My personal experience with my NORDOST FREYs: it mirrors what NORDOST highlights - quality single runs with quality jumpers rule.
I have shotgunned double run FREYs with matched jumpers that bested all  biwire comers in MY system (emphasis added)

https://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf