Open Baffle Opinions - I Won't go back to Boxed Speakers Evr Again (maybe....)

As sound travels at approximately 1' per ms, that requires the dipole be 5' from the wall (5'/ms from speaker to wall, 5'/ms from that wall back to the speaker).

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The main reason I had a difficult time getting a Dipole common baffle to work.  You cannot get the timing correct front to rear. The further you get from the front wall the WORSE the timing will be not better. Lets move it closer to the wall. HOW will you ever get the timing correct. Front to rear. 

The only way is to separate the poles and add drivers to the rear pole also.

A rather sloppy way is to add a WEIR, to the inside of both monitor sections. I chose to hinge mine and set the toe on the baffle face. After the phantom speaker is kinda figured out you set the inside weirs parallel to each other.
 
What about the outside of the baffle adjacent to the outside wall, where do you think all that "out of time" stuff is going.. NOT WHERE YOU WANT.. I assure you..

So a box (It has to be a box it can't be open) has to be DEAPER and that distance from the front wall to the rear pole is the distance from the rear pole the front pole BUT only if the distance is the same. So a 20" deep speaker would be 20" from the FRONT wall. The further you pull the speaker into the room the more of a 3/D effect you get BUT loss of imaging. There will be a point where your ears will just QUIT making sense of the music. A sound effect chamber...

The numbers you quote are arbitrary. I've never heard the "within10ms rule" I've found in speaker building that it to be just the opposite.

If you want to smear the image and ruin the sound stage, let like firing drivers fire at different distances from your ear as you're proposing with a common Dipole baffle. You will get one thing "SOUND EFFECTS"

OB Look cool though..

Excellent comments from all of you once again.

Here's my responses (so far) and thanks for the good advice :

1. The side wing (a la NX-Otica's - Danny Richie - I watch his Video's too) idea is one I will try 1st and foremost. Makes sense and he gives an excellent explanation why as you mention too. It's the center focus problem. I have enough material that I can temporarily make a side wall on top of the 1.5" thick side panels of the H-Frame Woofers.
2. Build a box around just the Midwoofers leaving just the 12" Woofers and the Tweeters Dipole. Changing the crossover points from 250Hz - 2500Hz to 120Hz - 2500Hz won't be hard. I have lots of Inductors laying around that I can cobble something together. Lowering the 12" Woofers LPF  to 120Hz is a snap with miniDSP.
3. Placement currently is 5ft. exactly from the "front" (TV) wall to the back of the H-Frame Subs (5', 9" to the Midbass/Tweeter Baffle). Right side is only 2.5ft. from the room's side wall and the left side is a whopping 7", 4" from the entrance/side pocket opening/WINDOW (I have to draw it out for you Guys), Also on the right side the Speaker face a Hallway. Also the swinging doors to the kitchen are wood in a glass frame window embedded. I'll take some pics and a floor plan with room dimensions.
4. Toe-in on most box Speakers friends have lent me gives me a great center phantom image when placed straight out into a room except for a pair of KEF R3's that worked best with about 10deg of toe-in.

Thanks again for the kind words of encouragement.

BTW, I'd seen a lot of OB designs that that either integrate an H Frame stacked or not stacked Woofer cabinet below the OB Panel so my panel was tall enough (barely) to accommodate. The difference is I have no top brace/shelf in my design.

I also saw a Video with Clayton Shaw (Spatial) who suggests the upper Woofer be crossed over higher while the bottom one is X'd at 90Hz.

Baby steps but I can hear the potential.

I have owned 2 Spatial audio labs speakers ,and currently 
saving for the Exceptional X3s. They have a great minimal Xover only 3 parts, the CustomBeyma AmT midrange-Tweeter,is excellent and there is no Xover in the critical midrange from 1k on up , very efficient 97db-1watt, 12 inch mid bass , and from 90 Hz down to 25 HZ and is powered for deep clear Bass.

1. Build a box around just the Midwoofers leaving just the 12" Woofers and the Tweeters Dipole. Changing the crossover points from 250Hz - 2500Hz to 120Hz - 2500Hz won't be hard. I have lots of Inductors laying around that I can cobble something together. Lowering the 12" Woofers LPF to 120Hz is a snap with miniDSP.

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man you are way ahead of my DIYer skills. I have no idea what you are talking about. 
However , though i do lack the science and deeper understanding of these things,,does not mean i am not willing to do some DIY stuff on my own. 
I just shipped back the Seas Fa22rcz after 15  minutes of testing .
So I am back to the drawng board,
Going witha  Davidlouis Lowther/Voxativ clone. The 2020 version,  the 8 incher. 

so my New Thor design will be dual W18 E001's + the Lowther/Vox clone 8. 
Adam at Madisound on <my> new Thor said of it,~~sounds like you got a  real Frankensteinspeaker going on there~~~lol, Yep, hope the 87db midbass pair up well with the 95db FR..

jimob18 posts05-10-2021 8:16pmI have owned 2 Spatial audio labs speakers ,and currently
saving for the Exceptional X3s. They have a great minimal Xover only 3 parts, the CustomBeyma AmT midrange-Tweeter,is excellent and there is no Xover in the critical midrange from 1k on up , very efficient 97db-1watt, 12 inch mid bass , and from 90 Hz down to 25 HZ and is powered for deep clear Bass.


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Sounds really nice what you got going on there.

I just cked out Beyma's cp750TI horns, weighing in at 15 lbs each!!!!
Really nice, 
But have to pass up these massive  and tempting , horns. 
Staying with a  FR + midbass design. 
The FR goes up into the 10k-15k range, and thats all I need.
I have no interest at all past 15k as 99% of classical music has nothing at all past 15k.
Sure a horn goes right up to 20k. 
But for what purpose????
zero interest. 
As well  these  , high tech compression mid tweets , have incredible sensitivity at 100-120 db sens. 
Again for what purpose??
My amp is a  true 100 watt PP.
On midrange/highs I look  for 94/95 sens. Even 97db is too high. 
I listen extremely near field in my small room  , so anything higher than 95db is a overkill.

Over 95db on a  full range, this would mean gain on the linestage would be set very low, which would not allow the W18E001's to open up..
The dual W18E001's are acting like a  bass floor for the Full range.
Really  is a Frankenstein of a  speaker
I havea  pair of open baffle,, well honestly, they have 1 screw hopding the driver to the top of the Thor cabinet,, The Millennium spot is now open as a  front baffle, , took out most of the stuffing fill and placed a 1 inch pad behind each W18/
Lots of bass and sounds super. The Diatone 6.5 is far superior to the Millennium tweeter for full rich midrange/highs. Even a bit lo nice solid upper bass. 
We need to begin thinking outside the box. 
I should have made this Frankenstein pre-upgrade on the Thors. 
The loss in that upgrade project  really pushed my bottons and I came up with this New Thor design in frustration and despair. 
Suffering is the root of creativity.