Here is how you bi-wire speakers. You remove jumpers.
https://www.audioadvice.com/videos-reviews/speaker-bi-wiring-bi-amping-explained/
https://www.audioadvice.com/videos-reviews/speaker-bi-wiring-bi-amping-explained/
Diagonal Connection With Two Pairs Of Binding Posts
Here is how you bi-wire speakers. You remove jumpers. https://www.audioadvice.com/videos-reviews/speaker-bi-wiring-bi-amping-explained/ |
Single-wiring of bi-wireable speakers has been discussed previously on A'gon. You might find some further useful input if you search. It's also covered on Nordost and Audioquest web-sites. Nordost advocates - (black) up and + (red) down. AQ just the opposite. Jumpers are still required when single-wiring bi-wireable speakers regardless the connection pattern used for the + & - leads. Depending on "tuning" needs, I'll use the Nordost diagonal for a little more treble energy on Totem Forests and the AQ pattern for a less but with Silverline Prelude Plus, I connect both + & - leads to the lower speaker terminals. As also noted on the Totem website, it can't hurt to experiment with all the possible permutations (4). Here's a link to the Nordost discussion. AQ's should be easy to find too. https://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf |
Diagonal cross connections is one way that Nordost has recommended for many years. You won't know until you try it. There are some who say if it's a two way speaker, go for the upper posts and if it's a three way, go for the lower ones. I've tried all combinations and found the cross connection to be best, when using jumpers. You'll find that with some speakers, dual speaker posts are just a gimmick and with others, they're really built to be bi wired. If someone is saying it's all BS, take that with a shaker of salt and move on. They probably feel the brass plates that come from the factory are good enough. It's very easy to hear the differences. All the best, Nonoise |