Mediabridge Ultra Series RCA Y-Adapter (12 Inches) - 1-Male to 2-Female for Digital Audio or Subwoofer - (Part# CYA-1M2F-P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DL2OVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ECCNFD1MD18K30G5AJ96
What process did you use to integrate multiple subwoofers for 2 channel listening?
Today I will be trying to integrate up to three subs. Two are matching Rythmiks F12SE, and one is a REL R-328. The Rythmiks have a variety of adjustable parameters, including phase, crossover, and gain. There are other switches and passes on the sub, but I'm going to try to keep it basic to begin with. The REL has variable gain and crossover; the phase on REL is either 0 or 180.
I have REW for measurement. I will be buying a few more furniture sliders this morning, on doctors orders. ;-)
QUESTION: If you have multiple subs, by what process did you integrate your subs? One at a time? More? Which adjustments did you try first and in what kinds of increment?
I know that trial, error, measuring, and listening will all take time. Rather than look for a needle in a haystack, I'm curious what sequence or process was most effective for you.
Thank you.
I have REW for measurement. I will be buying a few more furniture sliders this morning, on doctors orders. ;-)
QUESTION: If you have multiple subs, by what process did you integrate your subs? One at a time? More? Which adjustments did you try first and in what kinds of increment?
I know that trial, error, measuring, and listening will all take time. Rather than look for a needle in a haystack, I'm curious what sequence or process was most effective for you.
Thank you.
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- 109 posts total
hilde45, if you really want to do this right you buy a digital preamp with digital bass management capability like the DEQX Premate or Anthem STR. You can set your crossover point and slopes independently then set delays so the subs match your main speakers in time and phase. Now you need only passive subs which opens up a whole range of DIY capability. You can actually build a better sub than a commercial unit because problems like shipping weight are no longer an issue. There are great sub drivers available. Otherwise you just bypass all the cheap front end garbage in the commercial subs and use just the amplifier section. But, outboard amps are much better. If electronics are so susceptible to vibration is putting the amp in a vibration machine a good idea? |
For this project, I can't think of a better resource than Duke LeJeune. http://www.audiokinesis.com/contact.html |
For starters, I would only use the 2 Rythmik subs to begin with. I think once you have these dialed in, you can add the REL sub to see what affect it has, and start tweaking from there. If you download Enrico’s dialing-in document, you’ll find you need to set the Phase correctly, and Volume match your subs to your mains (pink noise and SPL meter required). Without doing these, you’re wasting your time with guessing. If you do this, you might find it easier to fix that early dip (use the extended bass filter to see how you can bump it up). Don’t adjust both subs the same all the time, experiment with one sub only, then set it back and try the other sub. You should also load a graph of your main speakers only. I think you’ll find the same results as the graph you posted for anything starting over 150-200Hz (I’m not sure what the cut-off is on your subs). Basically, the subs aren’t going to fix this. This is without any DSP, just location and adjustments on Subwoofer - https://imgur.com/a/G9kHdTt I had to back off the low end frequency (20Hz - 30Hz) because my wife was complaining it was making the house shake too much. |
- 109 posts total