Speaker impedance patterns - how to read them?


I know this has probably been discussed ad nauseam, but here's my question. I'm grateful for any sensible opinion.

Premise.
A speaker system may have a complex impedance pattern that can vary from 3-ohms to 30-ohms depending on frequency. Some speaker systems with similar impedance patterns may be stated as being 8-ohm loads because the speaker is 8 ohm in an important part of its frequency response, but only there.
A tube amp, as a voltage amplifier, likes a regular impedance pattern. Almost no speaker system has a constant, regular impedance pattern. I am aware that solid state, powerful amps are built to compensate for modern speakers' complex impedance patterns, but there are tube amps around and people who love them. It's difficult to understand what average load a given speaker system will present to the amp.

Question.
When looking for suitable speakers for a tube amp - mine is a PrimaLuna EVO 100, 40w x 2 from EL34s - what must be looked at? How to best interpret the impedance pattern, whenever available? Assuming that one listens at normal levels in a medium-sized room, what are the criteria for matching speaker and amp?

Thanks for your views. M.
martinguitars
@erik_squires 
Actually Erik,  no, I am not mixing up a driver vs a finished system.  I didn't say ALL speakers rise with frequency, Many drivers have a fairly smooth curve.   Here is a simple 2 way,  they show driver impedance as well as system impedance and add zobel.  Impedance compensation is the only thing that fixed these curves. You can see the curves.  
I'm sorry, but I've read through that blog that you reference, it give very basic info and doesn't show detail.  What you are saying about a driver vs that same driver within a system has minor merit, good compensation will affect the curve, but to say that a drivers individual impedance curve does not effect or control the system in the frequencies that it operates in wrong. This is not opinion, but fact.  I've done this hundreds of times. Too bad that we live so far apart,  I have an entire side of my basement shelved with drivers. We could do measurements together as well as do some system designs.  Its easy enough to show. I think that the miscommunication or (mixing up) is what a drivers curve looks like in free air vs what it looks like in its enclosure.  The curve can change quite a bit in an enclosure.  Again,  my goal here is not to argue, but to give the op some information on his inquirey.  I believe that I know of a good example.  I'll look around and if I find it,  I'll post. 
BR-1 manual.indd (daytonaudio.com)
Here you go op,  this should help.  Normally when I am building a speaker.  In design phase, I keep the crossovers external with the drivers in the box, this helps give me very accurate impedance and phase all along the design process.  
This person has done a pretty good job explaining as well as several examples that will help you get a good handle understanding. 
Speaker impedance curve explained with examples - Audio Judgement
@martinguitars, 
You asked a very reasonable question and have received some excellent and thoughtful replies (@audiokineisis as one fine example). Don't become discouraged and just ignore the immature and non useful comments.  I have no doubt that you'll find an excellent speaker match for your Primaluna amplifiers. 
Charles 
One other thing needs to be stated: don't match/buy a speaker for a certain amplifier based solely on the published specs that come from the manufacturer.  This applies to nominal impedance (a real moving target), sensitivity, whatever. Notice, too, that sensitivity can be expressed in different ways.  When magazines with the technical wherewithal measure speakers, the results are very frequently different, and when they are different they are almost always less favorable to the speaker (i.e. it will be harder to drive for one or other reason).  
Learning more about technical specs is always helpful, but since what matters is they sound good to your ears. I'd put emphasis on simply trying different speakers and not get caught up in tech talk. Graphs won't guarantee them pleasing your ears. That amp is small enough to take to a dealer for  demo.

I've used a PL Prlogue, which is the forerunner to your EVO 100. Most of the popular brands are 87-89 db, and will work fine-for "normal listening."  As the manual suggests, try both 4/8 ohm taps.

I used a sealed cabinet, 89 db speaker with good results.