The question is, did the manufacturer use threaded inserts or "T" nuts or did he just use wood screws and expect the MDF to hold. If just MDF you will strip the threads. Take a screw out. If it is a machine screw (the tip is flat) you can tighten them up to 10 nm safely. If they are wood screws (sharply pointed tip) you are in danger of stripping the wood and just snug is all you should do. Some companies use a compressible gasket under the driver. I take them out and put a very thin bead of silicone around the periphery of the driver and tighten the screws to 25 nm to firmly seat the driver and seal the silicone.
REMINDER: tighten up your loose screws
REMINDER, tighten up all loose screws around the drivers. Just Do It. All of them.
Sit back and enjoy your “new system”.
85% of screws on my speakers needed 1/8 to pass 1/4 turn to snug firmly and guess this… all screws on my woofers needed 1 full turn. Some was actually needed 2 turns. Anyways, improvement was a jaw dropping.
Credit reminder to Rick from High Fidelity Cables
Sit back and enjoy your “new system”.
85% of screws on my speakers needed 1/8 to pass 1/4 turn to snug firmly and guess this… all screws on my woofers needed 1 full turn. Some was actually needed 2 turns. Anyways, improvement was a jaw dropping.
Credit reminder to Rick from High Fidelity Cables
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- 30 posts total
nasaman, You may want to compliment your new brass screws with more brass https://www.mapleshadestore.com/ |
Long time ago when i used to have speakers with back panel attached with the screws I didn’t go crazy screw them extra tight, I just used nail polish to put them on. Nail polish is easy to unscrew if you need it and at the same time it holds screws on the place tightly.. don’t use glue as it will be permanent. |
- 30 posts total