KEF 107 without Kube

First impressions are not long term satisfaction, so don’t throw shade on other people like that. Especially such one sided and off kilter shade.

the long term result would be as the person said they would personally experience. tha they did not speak of directly, but only indicated. they indicated, in so many words, that this was their experience and way they move in the world.

That they won’t like the sound in the long term. Where the eq characteristics would be understood and heard, in the long term, overall, as a lack of quality in the sonic results.

I’ve owned those speakers before, and I had the cube. What I did is I upgraded the outboard EQ. I changed the power supply, socketed all the opamps therein,and then tested out various opamps....and I even biased them into class A, and so on. It made for a marked improvement. but still, in the end, it is an extra piece of unwanted sound quality damaging electronics--no matter how much I improved it.

It might be ’enough’ for some people’s speed of intelligence (intelligence has cognitive speed/rate as a fundamental) in recognizing faults or hearing faults, over time. It might satisfy some folks desires as tied to that intelligence and applied analysis, and it might do it for a long time.

For some of us, it takes days, or even minutes  -to hear it. Mere seconds, for the more experienced in the given field. (in this case the complex field of audio)

I owned a restored pair of KEF 107s for a couple of years. You’re going to want the Kube. The set was designed as a system and people selling 107s without it use the excuse that they sound better without...they don’t. The Kube offers a lot of room tuning flexibility. Also, note the 107/2 Kube is different than the original 107 Kube. The non hardwired Kubes are more desirable since you can run the cables of your choice.

After purchase, I began hoarding 107 parts. Extra tweeters, B-110 mid drivers, and I owned 3 Kubes at one point. They can be hard to find, but do turn up on the auction site from time to time. The stock power (wall wart) is good to have too.

If you go through with the purchase, take $500 off any asking price so you can fund a Kube purchase. Sellers believe they can get full market value on an incomplete set. Don’t fall for it.

@roxy54 Can you provide a universally accepted definition of an audiophile? You're probably right to assume I'm not that. I am, however, annoyed by your response and kindly ask for you to troll your superiority complex to other boards.

@yakbob I tend to agree with you and can't get over the fact that the Kube is needed.  I did get a good enough price so I think I'm good. I'll start looking for a Kube.. 

The 107/2 Kube works the same/maybe better on the 107 correct?  In my time researching that seems to be the consensus but there are always those who claim each Kube was matched to that particular speaker and cannot be separated. I believe that's hogwash but who knows.  I'm here to learn.

@roxy54 Let me help you understand a little better. Most "audiophiles" prefer the straightest less altered signal path as possible. They want to believe their speakers are capable on their own merits to produce an accurate full range of sound without "electronic" assistance.

Here’s an example for you. You test drive a corvette and OMG it’s SO much faster than you expected. After your drive you find out there are mods to the engine making it faster than the base Corvette should be. So to reproduce the same high/excitement, you too much employ similar mods... Many which come with downsides.

Lastly, don't come to this thread making snarky responses to people trying to learn. I'm sure your level of Audiophilia is beyond what the common man can understand which makes me wonder why you're wasting your time responding to a lesser experienced person like myself.

So once you found out he had the bass bumped up did you ask him to make make it flat and you didn’t like it then?