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DIY Replacing Components in Crossovers

I have a couple pair of old speakers that I'm thinking about tinkering around with by replacing existing capacitors and/or resistors with different brands just to get a taste of how different higher quality parts affect the speaker's sound. I don't have any interest in redesigning the crossover networks, only to replace existing parts with better quality parts with the same values to see what kind of results I get. Soldering and the mechanics of replacing the parts isn't an issue for me but I just don't have much experience with the sonics of individual parts. Have any of you done this before? What has worked for you? All things being equal, do you hear much difference replacing crossover parts with better quality components? Any stories to tell? Thanks for looking.

 

arch2
kully560
47 posts
 

you can use hot glue they make it in all strengths. if you want to remove a cap you would use alcohol and a q tip and that will soften the glue. a better way is epoxy but not removable. I stack caps when there is no room. .

astolfor's avatar
astolfor
317 posts
 

If you can get past his self promoting BS this is a good site to get some info too.

https://www.gr-research.com/

how you physically arrange the network plays a significant role, there is a lot happening 

here is a video that he shows the effect of different component layouts.

https://youtu.be/HqxLuTprb1U

alexberger
916 posts
 

What kind of speakers do you have? What kind of drivers? How much money do you plan to invest?

I just rebuilt my Altec 604E crossover using original crossover schematics. I just use original inductors. Capacitors in most vintage speakers are of very bad quality, especially electrolytic. Potentiometers also are very bad for sound.

Vintage Altec drivers are very well built with huge alnico magnets and good quality diaphragms. So they are really worth the investment. I can say, these speakers with original and rebuilt crossovers are completely different speakers.

I used Duelund resistors. Mills are transparent but don't hold complex music as good as Duelund.

For the 14uF capacitor I used a mix of: Duelund RS, Jupiter VT, Auricap XO, Dueuland Silver bypass.

For 3uF I used Jensen Aluminum foil PIO and Duelund bypass Cu-Sn.

But I reused most of the capacitors from previous projects.

For good value for money I can recommend Auricap XO or MIFLEX KPCU-01/03 if you want really high quality copper foil capacitors.

 

alexberger
916 posts
 

Hi @arch2 ,

I also recommend to bypass each capacitor in crossover by Russian polystyrene k71-7 capacitors. It makes sound more smooth and transparent. Even if the big capacitor is already bypassed by Duelund Bypass adding K71-7 helps!

Regards,

Alex.

 

arch2 OP
308 posts
 

Thanks for the responses guys. I’m going to do baby steps and start with replacing capacitors and resistors just to get a feel for the sound changes with each upgraded part. I’m not going to go crazy with parts expense but decent enough to get a feel for sound vs price. I’ll probably make that my project after Xmas. 

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