Is there a solid fuse-like item that I can use in place of a fuse, to bypass it?


Hi All,

instead of using a "gourmet" fuse in certain situations, I want to bypass the fuse entirely with a solid piece of metal. I also want to avoid soldering-in a piece of wire in the fuse’s place.

Are there solid pieces of silver or copper, the same size as a fuse, that i can swap into a fuse holder?

fai_v

WARNING: there are several people here on this thread that are recommending replacing a fuse with solid material (whether they are serious or joking). This is not a good idea. The idea of a fuse is not to protect your equipment, but to protect your environment against fire. When a fuse in a preamp/amp blows, it means the device is trying to draw more current that it was designed for. For example, if an electrolytic cap burns through, it will "short to ground" and cause the device to pull as much current as possible.

So, many people are saying "your fire protection is at the main circuit breaker". This is only partially correct. For things such as a garbage disposal - this is a motor and will definitely trip the main circuit breaker because of how much current it can actually pull down the line.

Now let us look at something like a preamp. It has an internal transformer that will convert the 115 volts A/C to something like 15 Volts AC - a voltage that can be used by the DC regulators. The transformer is also not that big - usually not larger than 50 VA. This means that the transformer will only be able to pull and provide current for 50 watts. So, if something shorts inside the preamp and causes it to pull everything it can, it will still only pull a limited amount of current. The main 15 amp circuit breaker is NOT GAURANTEED TO TRIP (since 15 amps is basically 1850 watts of power). This means your little preamp can start a fire if you have a "solid block" in place of the fuse.

4 ga jumper cables Make sure that you are bonded well to ground.

Better sound if you pull the batteries out of all smoke detectors.

Big fan of this idea.  

If you are able to spend thousands of dollars of disposable income on the smallest nuance of sound improvement, and you are convinced that the fuse reduces sound quality, then you can afford to buy a new component if it fails when the fuse could have protected it.  

I have a lathe and can turn you a piece of copper the size of your fuse.  It would be better to get it silver plated.  

Alternatively it could be coated in anti-oxidation grease.

Send me a message if I can help.

Jerry

If you think the fuse has that significant and adverse effect on the sound, such that it is worth risking the component and a fire, then don't stop short by just replacing the fuse--bypass the fuse holder by directly wiring the power cord to the internal wiring of the amp.  This would mean removing any IEC power cord plug as well.  Any kind of junction is, at least theoretically, a source of degraded transfer of power, so these should be removed along with the fuse and fuse holder.

Personally, I would NEVER remove something as fundamental to protecting gear and preventing fires as the fuse.  I consider this the first line of defense, and would only consider adding more, not less protection, such as surge protection, soft start, etc.