How to choose an upgraded tonearm.


In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.

My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.

What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.

Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?

Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,

Mike

skyscraper

Raul, thank you for an interesting suggestion on the Technics. I’ve taken a look at the links you provided, and watched the Fremer youtube video where Fremer compared the Technics to a $100,000 turntable in a side by side listening comparison. Also watched a follow-up video to that by an engineer, and read a review by Absolute Sound

Ghdprentice, i do really like the VPI Classic 2. Especially so after acquiring some accessories like upgraded Isoacoustic isolation feet and the periphery ring for it. I hate to think about changing it out even though there might be better models out there for the dollar, such as the Technics SL 1200g Raul suggests.

Thank you for your encouragement and common sense. It’s very much appreciated. By the way, did you previously mention what table you have now. I’m just curious, and nosey enough t ask. If it happens to be the Technics SL 1200g, don’t tell me.

Mike

Chuckle. I now own a Linn LP12 with Koetsu Rosewood Signature. To gain back some of the solidity I lost from my VPI I added a Silent Running Audio isolation platform. I like it… and actually have their highest level tone arm waiting to be installed… I have the intermediate one now (~$2,800). I will be interested in hearing the difference.

 

I thought long and hard about the turntable change before doing it. While based on SQ research I also let a bit of nostalgia and desire to have something that looked good. For all of my 50 my years pursuing the high end I never had enough money to allow looks to enter the equation… it was sound quality only… and always a compromise for that. But I am retired and, well could afford to let looks enter the picture. Also, my friend and audio dealer is a Linn master technician and knows my taste in sound well… he loves working on turntables. So, ultimately a great decision. Another thing I liked about Linn was upgradability. I know myself, I will not be happy until I get to the top. I am now only one upgrade away from the top… it sounds fantastic.

While I am not an expert, I am not a Technics fan… my good friend (above) is an expert and is in agreement. He has worked on and tuned different generations of them. Turntable sound is very personal. Some like a “lively” sound. I like a more solid with and exceptional quite background… to my understanding that takes mass or incredible isolation.

I can agree with the statement by @ghdprentice  that a 'Turntable sound is very personal' and that the choice made for Isolation is of importance.

I started out with Belt Drives, and followed spending many years with Idler Drive and today have a DD as my most used TT.

I still make sure I experience all TT Drive types to keep my ear in tune to the recognisable differences that can be perceived.

From many encountered experiences, I have found that a structure built from differing devices and materials has proven to be invaluable for supporting a TT, and in a lesser perceived impression can be quite valuable for other devices to be mounted on within a System.

One individual I know has a selection of mounting materials for their owned SUT's and one model is used seated on a 25mm Thich Stainless Steel Plate.

The use of a Footer Type in contact with the Racks Support Shelve and Sub Plinth > then a Different Footer Type in between Sub Plinth and the TT Plinth is from my experience the method that seems to offer the best for decreasing smearing and improving micro details.

The materials used in the assembly can also have an effect on how the frequency extremes are perceived as well.  

As a DIY approach a Sub Plinth can be tried in differing materials and of differing thicknesses, and enable a insight into how these assemblies can perform in a particular environment.

A Sub Plinth such as a Sand Box ( when assembled the structure will be a Three Tier Assembly of Materials) can also be produced, with a Kiln Dried Sand used as a infill material, a friend uses one in his environment and will not change it.

There are endless commercial items on offer that can extend to being as costly as a expensive TT Set Up.

The first experience of such ideas does not need to be expensive, and might prove to supply a mounting method that might allow the Kleos to show of some of its inherent values with an increased impression for the better, as managing unwanted transferral of energies within the listening environment are now better considered. 

 

Ghdrpentice, good luck getting to that last upgrade, certainly a worthy goal. VPI has some of that upgrade capability too as you know. Sounds like you put a lot of thought into your turntable choice and it’s paid off for you right down to having some "looks" to it.

Having a friend who’s a Linn Master Technician is fortuitous too. I mostly have friends who’ve never heard of high end stereo equipment. The only acquaintance  who has is a neighbor, who I gave all my old Phase Linear equipment and Dahlquist DQ 10’s to. I didn’t know another soul out here in the country who would have even known, much less appreciated, what that vintage equipment was.

Pindac, like you say it is important to have an effective system of vibration isolation.. I used some of techniques you mentioned in building the shelving housing my components,

The turntable itself was retrofitted with Isoacoustic feet which sit on a marble slab, floating on a layer of meshed foamlike material, sitting on a floating shelf of 3/4" cross ply Baltic birch, floating on another layer of soft mesh in turn resting on a regular 3/4" plywood connected to the side walls. I don’t know if this makes the sytem any quieter as I’ve never had the equipment situated elsewhere, but I sure hope so for the effort put into it. All the components now have the Isoacoustic brand feet for the same purpose as isolating the turntable, since that seemed to work so well in that application.

Mike

I have the Brand Solid Tech - Feet of Silence' and  Audio Technica's  - AT-616 Footers in use under my TT, and will when I have a functioning HiFi room back in place, will be trialling Panzerholz and Permali Boards in place of a Highly Compressed PUR Foam (750Kg per cubic metre) that I have been using for a few years now.

As said previously, I am happy to loan items out and the Local Group I belong to, and am meeting with today are now using the Brand Isoacoustic Footers under their TT's, CDP , CDT > DAC's and Speakers.

Very recently a New to the Group Valve Amp, during the demonstration had a noticeable looseness to the lowest Bass Notes, Isoacoustic Feet were used under the amp' and the Bass become taught to a very noticeable degree.

Drawing on experience the best way to assess an impact a material or device can have is to live with it for a period and then go in reverse to return the Set Up to the earlier used method. It will be instantaneous where the difference are to be found and at what point the change occurred.

You have nice materials acquired to be sure any further investigation into producing a support structure is chosen to be undertaken, the trials are to be supported with desirable to own footer ancillaries.

The good news is that the response to an inquiry from almost all of the forum members, is not in any way a mimic of the Caricature of the Eighties/Nineties HiFi Retail attitudes as portrayed in the Link.   

Enjoy the moment of satire.