2. analog
  3. 176354-172731

Every day I see another turntable recommendation...

After digging into this topic, I am convinced now I need to go a bit higher on this first vinyl set up. I think all in, I am prepared at this point to go up to $5k, for the table alone, not including arm or cartridge.

But frankly, being on this forum is like drinking from an information firehose. I have learned a bunch and yet somehow, I am less convicted than before.

With that in mind, to narrow down the decision, I am want to restrict myself to things I can buy, hear and, if necessary, service locally. My local dealers stock, AMG, AVM, Basis, Clearaudio, Michell, Musichall, Pro-ject, Rega, VPI, so I am likely restricted to those brands. I am certain my view will change by the end of this thread.

saulh
Ag insider logo xs@2x
cleeds
6,014 posts
 

 

mijostyn

@cleeds, of course I have a rumble filter, a very steep digital rumble filter with a cut off frequency of 18 Hz. The rumble is coming from the record.

That’s interesting. The last time we reviewed your rumble filter, you suggested it was needed because you have constant earthquakes where you live. Now you blame the record. It’s obvious you have LF issues in your setup that you resolve with the rumble filter, which is fine, of course.

... judging by your comments you do not have a lot of experience with vinyl and high performance systems or you would know these things ...What you do not seem to know is that using a properly isolated table designed the way the Sota is a joy. You can handle it without having to be do so gingerly ...

You and I are getting similar performance, although I’m using a VPI TNT III (on a dedicated stand) with an SME V. My IRS Beta system is essentially flat in-room to below 20 hZ - without any rumble filter. I do have the active LP servo-crossover set to roll-off at 15 hZ, where it is -3dB.

I’ve achieved similar LF performance without rumble filters with other turntables, including a Denon DP-80 in the VPI base. But the VPI has bested them all overall.

Where we agree is the joy of using a properly isolated turntable that avoids the fiddly, bouncy, jiggly, unstable, low mass turntables that some use. I just prefer to avoid aggressive rumble filters and have a setup that allows that.

 

saulh OP
56 posts
 

this https://skyfiaudio.com/collections/turntables/products/clearaudio-performance-dc-turntable-w-tracer-tonearm-and-new-sumiko-cartridge

and this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203527281169

and maybe I'm done at $8500 for gear that would retail at $12k?

Nervous about used turntables and tube amps though. Any thoughts?

ghdprentice
7,289 posts
 

I would not buy a used turntable under any circumstances. i don’t buy anything mechanical. I would buy amps from a dealer who will stand behind them (ss or tubed).

drbond
425 posts
 

@saulh 

I definitely wouldn't buy any high end audio equipment from eBay.  

If you're interested in used equipment, stick with sellers with feedback here on Audiogon, or could try the other US Audio Mart...be sure to inquire about history of repairs, etc

systembuilder22's avatar
systembuilder22
17 posts
 

If you want quality you virtually have to consider used gear.  This is especially true for tape decks ; NO quality tape decks being made anymore.  There is perhaps a resurgence in quality turntables but they cost twice as much as they should be costing.  High quality workhorse super durable turntable from the '60s '70s and '80s should be $1,000 to $2,500 in today's prices.  $5,000 is beyond what you could pay back then.  This is why I don't think that new gear is generally any good.  There is gear from the past that will still be working when every turntable made today has worn out and broken down!  Today's gear is either rubbish or 2x what it should cost,.  I'd take a best-selling turntable from the 80th percentile of the market from 1980-1990 over anything sold today.  When you are going to make 10 million turntables a year you can make a much higher quality product than when you are going to make 10,000.

More to discover