Amplifier Longevity Question

In 1972 my wife and I bought a McIntosh MC2105 power amp.  Now fifty years later it is still playing in the basement party room at my son's house.  I imagine it is terribly in need of recapping, but for half a century it has played music every time it is turned on.

This is a tough question.  Solid state gear is quite reliable and rarely have problems, but, when some transistors go, they cannot be replaced and the amp is toast.  Tube gear is more prone to failure, but older classic tube gear can be repaired and returned to service for a very long time.  Some ultra high quality tube gear can operate without any repairs or parts replacement for many decades.  A friend has a Western Electric 124 amp that sounds great that has all original parts that is probably 70 years old.  My amp is a Western Electric 133 re-build with almost all of the parts being vintage (all except the power transformer and choke, input jacks and binding posts), and it has operated with no issues for about 12 years (no tube changes, and the tubes were old when I got the amp).

Everyone has given good advice thus far, and I agree that with proper maintenance they should last for many years. You said that your wife was a classical musician. I I were you; I would explore a tube preamplifier. I think that you will both discover more realistic timbre and decay from instruments as well as better flow.

I have very successful experience with several vintage tube receivers, mono amps, preamps, some 1958, others 1964. Complex tape recorders from the 80’s. TT from the 80’s.

One example: McIntosh mx110z tube tuner/preamp, 1964. bought on eBay, tubes all tested good on my tube tester, listened, loved it’s sound for 2 years as received,

Then, sent it to Audio Classics for overhaul. Best thing they did was replace all the old rca corroded jacks with new gold plated jacks!

They replaced several capacitors and resistors because ’at this age, many of the components had drifted in value’.

Oh yeah, they aligned the FM tuner.

Great, but could I hear the difference? Nope, sounded great before and after, but those corroded jacks were problematic, new ones let me sleep better!

IOW, drifting out of value more than likely true, but audible, that’s hard to say.

Cleaning pots, switches, tightening tube sockets contacts with tube pins, testing tubes: I do that myself, but if not, the old stuff definitely benefits from having a shop do that.

I just checked the Universal Remote database, and the Magnum Dynalab code set is there. That means you can have an MX remote programmed to include your tuner’s operating controls, along with any TV & sound system you have. The MX-790 is $349.00 and a basic program is usually under $200.00.  Not worth it just for the tuner, but as a total solution maybe. Alternatively a cheap code programmable one from a blister pack might have it for $10.00. The GE or Phillips ones use the UEI database, which is vast. They are annoying to set up, but hey, they’re cheap.

Give your back a break and get a good Class D, Purifi Eigentakt or GAN FET amp, which will be as transparent and powerful as you need without the hernia.  NAD M23, or for more esoteric appeal, Orchard or Mytek. All under $4000.00, some a lot under.