New VPI purchase

I owned two VPI's over a span of six years. I disagree that the periphery ring, which I have, makes a positive difference unless the record is warped near the edge. 

I do agree the VPI feet are trash. They look fancy. I have posted about this here before. 

You still have a very fine table, particularly with the gimbaled Fatboy. Good job!

Someone above said the replicant stylus is a "little more forgiving". I humbly disagree. It is very difficult to set up a replicant for optimum playback. But as I said above, the heavens will not part when it is optimum vs. slightly off. But getting azimuth and VTA/SRA are important with the replicant stylus. 

Forgive me for having some time on my hands but I looked at your past threads trying to figure out your system. Based on your prior questions I gather you are both very intelligent and on something of a modest budget. Again, good for you for picking out a great deck. I believe in source first, not loudspeakers first when it comes to budget. I said it above and I will say it again-you really ought to find an experienced set-up person to optimize your settings at some point (not necessary immediately!). 

Just get VTF right, leveling correct, and alignment halfway close and you will be fine for now. Most VTF gauges are off. Getting correct VTF is critical. The Riverstone gauge is not that expensive and is very accurate. 

FWIW (no financial connection), my recco to see what your table and cartridge can really do is to strongly consider Brian Walsh of ttsetup.com. 

I know @fsonicsmith stated that the twist in the wire is no good. But I have found that if you use the Soundsmith method of checking anti-skate, that a little twist does the trick. The stylus will slightly pause at the lead out groove, then slowly drift towards the spindle. At least that's my experience with it.

I know @fsonicsmith stated that the twist in the wire is no good. But I have found that if you use the Soundsmith method of checking anti-skate, that a little twist does the trick. The stylus will slightly pause at the lead out groove, then slowly drift towards the spindle. At least that's my experience with it.

On a gimbaled arm I have no problem with it. With a unipivot, twisting the lemo wire tends to cause the tonearm and head shell to cant to one side, usually the outboard side up IIRC. A counterintuitive is meant to offer fine and repeatable adjustment of VTF and azimuth in an otherwise "clean slate" scenario, not to offset the cant caused by twisting the lemo wire, at least afaik. I would never deny a thing that Peter Lederman recommends. There is no denying that HW and MW don't accept AS as an important design parameter. 

Speaking of Peter Lederman and his knowledge (and sorry for thread drift) but why does a guy who can build a strain gauge cartridge not design a phono stage meant to tackle the state of the art? He is clearly capable. Instead he offers fairly entry-level phono stages that are incidentally all business to the point of being butt-ugly. Double-bagger ugly. 

@boxcarman,

When not using the clamp, do you also go without the rubber washer?  My Scout 2 does sound livelier without the clamp.

I bought one of the last VPI HW-40's earlier this year and what a difference it made. I use the Ortofon Cadenza Black. VPI did the initial setup and I just tweaked it after I placed the table where it was going. I use a Stillpoints weight. I have not used the supplied ring and probable will not. FWIW