What is the science behind audiophile fuses?

@tksteingraber realize that the fuse replacement is just a short piece of conductor adjacent to the power cable.  I don't think you'll ever hear a significant effect fro different coppers on such a short piece of conductor, just so it is heavy (not thinwalled tube).  Now often the fuse holder is not great--it can't be soft copper or it will relax and not clamp the fuse.  Often they are .....clears throat....whispers....steel.  so a good fuse holder would be where to focus your interest. 

That said, I'm as audiophile geek as anybody so I buy high conductivity copper 5mm bar from McMaster car, cut it into fuse lengths on my lathe, and polish with scotchbrite.  I'll be glad to send you one if you want one.

Jerry

@carlsbad2...when you mentioned 'slug', 1st thought 'metal bar, low gauge copper'; 2nd, a diy from an earlier 'confounded fused flail' that 'appeared' (not sounded, yet) worth spending less time on than you do...

But I applaud your efforts to fab and take a Good Slug @ it... aesthetics do count even for a lowly slug... ; ) 👍

3urd was 'homeless snail', soon to be ' budget escargot' ='d *bleah*🙄

@reimarc ....If 'lectric exotic at the super bunting autopsychoic sounds like fun:

0>60 under 2, 0>100>0 under 8 ; seconds, street version pending if not out already... 

The budget 2 wheel version:

...all it lacks is 110db air horns....  My 1st personal diy option...; )

@reimarc The power supply doesn’t merely allow proper operation, it is that which is the source of the actual music. Simply put, the amplifier circuitry modulates the flow of that power through the speakers. Ceteris paribus, the better the power supply, the better the sound.

not the signal circuit itself but the part that supplies the power for proper operation.

I don’t know how to make a good sounding fuse, but I have discovered that a cracked fuse holder can make most any fuse sound bad.

If a system is intended to be used at a level well below its capabilities to deal with current, then it makes building the fuse easier, it would seem. The fuse can be set to pop at a much, much higher current level than any normal listening session would produce. So the fuses internal resistance and any audible compression effects from the fuse beginning to heat can be minimized. I used to have some piezo compression drivers that had little light bulbs in them that acted as fuses of sorts. Instead of blowing, they would take to glowing, which would effectively compress the output to the tweeter. This is fine for a PA system but probably not acceptable to most HiFi enthusiasts.

Doesn’t the power supply include capacitors that store electrical power used by the device, including the capability to supply power for peak demands?  Shouldn’t the power supply be designed so that the current draw through the fuse should never exceed the rated value under normal use?  Otherwise, it would seem the power supply is under designed.  I believe some may be putting too much emphasis on the role of the fuse in the power supply chain.  Obviously, it is essential but, as long as it works properly, perhaps not a direct influence on the sonic end result?