Speaker Cable Recommendation

+1 Nordost !

Call Jason at the cable company and get several out of their lending library

Good luck Willy-T

Ditto the canare 4S11, but be ready for a looong break-in period.

"Significant" ?   I think some folks should look up the word in the dictionary.  Different? Yes, but tiny, tiny, tiny unless you are letting your belief system modify what you hear vs. the actual sound.  A very real cause of difference I don't discount. 

"Cables are tone controls"  Should they be?  Only bad ones are in my view. The goal is for them NOT to be. We have much better ways to do that. 

"No entry level..."   Are you a salesman?   Otherwise I hope that was a joke. If not, I have a bridge for sale...

"Silver over copper" OK, but that does change the velocity vs frequency adversely if you believe that to be a factor.  Remember at AF, skin depth is 100% in an 18 gauge wire.  Silver over copper is sometimes used for RF over long runs where it does matter. 

I actually run 4TC on my desk. 3 feet.  Why? Because I had it.  I had some cheap CCA 16 gauge temporary cable. Difference?  Maybe but I would not swear to it.  I run a sub so the difference DCR and effect on DF is irrelevant. I keep telling myself it helped imaging, but I am probably fooling myself.  Resistance  being the primary controlling factor is more significant on a full range and of course the longer the cable.  Still tiny. 

If you want to believe cables are "significant" and have thousands to spend, then at least go check out Iconoclast as it is the result of a real cable engineer designing the very best that they know how to make using objective measurements. Kimber takes a different but not dissimilar approach. If you are a normal person with normal income, then give "good" cable as specified by real engineers a try and save your money for speakers. 

ANY cable that they don't publish the specs on I would consider suspicious. No specs, no science, no proof. Just advertising snake oil.  Maybe some are OK. Maybe not.  B.T. Barnum was very astute. 

I guess the price goes up if you need "magic" spades or bananas. You actually only need a good firm gas-tight connection.  I wish amps and speakers still had terminal blocks. If a difference in connector is audible, it is either one was crap  ( steel?, poor connection? ) or placebo.  

Dan, not surprised. That Monoprice 4/12 would have higher both C and L.  Belden 1313A, 5T100, 1810H , Mogami W3103 would all be similar.  ( and very similar to the genetic OCC wire I mentioned) Kimber 8PR is lower inductance but much higher capacitance if one wants to go that route.  I am sure there are plenty of other similar wires.  If I could find some 10 gauge ultra fine strand TP with thinner PTFE insulation and no jacket, I might give it a try "just because" .  Yes the outer jacket does effect the velocity as measurable in a laboratory. 

All of this is IGNORING what goes on in the speaker.  Caps, inductors, resistors, voice coils, wires and circuit boards.  Some very expensive speakers have dime store crossover parts.  Is that silver wire going to really make a difference when the tweeter has a couple aluminum foil caps on it?  How about that woofer wound with aluminum wire to keep the mass down?  Think about it as a SYSTEM and then decide what to attack first. 

Just because "believers" will accuse me again of saying cables make no difference, they DO. It is just very small, it is reasonably well understood, and excellent solutions are cheap. 

https://www.vogueaudio.com/speaker-cables

I really like these speaker cables, I use them with my Coincident Frankenstein 300B stereo (8watts) Klipsch Forte IV or JBL 4319. Take advantage while they are on sale.