rocket 88

Maybe cables matter, but y’all understand that bi-wiring does absolutely nothing, right? You’re still sending a full-range signal down both pairs, the crossovers still do their low-pass/high-pass roles. And at 10-12 ft the series resistance is still a small fraction of the series resistance of the low-pass inductor.

I try not to say anything too technical on the forums because every accountant and MBA claiming to be engineering PhDs from Purdue, MIT, etc (the all knowing seers!)) could get their enormous egos hurt these days. Some speaker peddlers who buy drivers from someone else, put em in a box and sell it to y’all for beacoup bucks don’t know diddly either and are also a part of the misinformation transmission group.

The following information is just to get you a bit more informed about this. So, don’t get offended. In layman terms, when you apply a voltage to a drive unit, the current flow is nonlinear. i.e. If you put a linear voltage into a linear resistance, the current flow will be linear. If you put a linear voltage into a nonlinear resistance (such as a driver implementation in a speaker), the current flow is nonlinear.

For any driver, the impedance is a combination of the current going in the forwards and backwards direction (i.e. when a coil’s moving), i.e., it is a non-linear current flow. When you have a tweeter and woofer coupled through a crossover to a common ground point, that point is not the speaker’s negative terminal. True ground is back at the amp (not at the speaker) due to the wire going to the amp...so far so good?

As you may know, any speaker cable has a resistance associated with it, ---> non-linear current flow through the tweeter is generating a nonlinear voltage across that wire ---> the reference point for the voltage applied across the woofer has a nonlinear voltage applied to it by a small amount and vice versa ---> nonlinear contamination between the 2 drivers. (it is a small amount)...

The essence of biwiring is separating those wires and grounding them only at the amplifier such that the amplifier is a true ground point, and the nonlinear artifact/contamination (mentioned above) is removed.

Whether you hear it or not depends on the fidelity of your room, quality of your ear, any attention to detail that was paid to your speaker drivers, crossovers, amps, etc.

Just because you can’t hear it doesn’t mean no one else can hear it...

^^^^ 👍 ^^^^  

Just a note. Put the shorter pair on the woofers. If there is a timing issue at all at least the woofers will start first. Typically the speed goes to the high end. Personally I would just run the cables you have to the tweeters and jump down with about 8” of rocket 88. You can even experiment with other jumpers from other companies. Try not to use the factory gold plated metal jumpers. If you do use them connect your speaker cables to the high side. Maybe borrow a pair or buy a returnable pair of Rocket 88s so you can see if you hear a difference and you like that difference. I feel there is better way to spend your money like IsoAcoustics for your speakers or your gear. Especially your digital side. You should prioritize your money to where it makes the most audible impact. I will bet you will make a bigger difference with a better power cord than a second speaker cable. It all starts at the wall. Try before you buy so you’re not going down the dreaded rabbit hole. This hobby gets expensive. 

@deep_333 @hsounds

Well stated, gentlemen. I learned something. Just might prove I’m still “trainable” at my age?

I would just like to add that a manufacturer (I believe it’s AQ) recommends that if you’re going to use those factory jumpers and run full range that you “stagger” the inputs, connecting the positive lead to the highs and the negative to the lows. The science here is well above my pay grade, but thought it was worth sharing.

Waytoomuchstuff is correct about putting the positive and negative on opposite sets of binding posts. A couple more things. You should only do this if the Jumpers match the speaker cable otherwise you get an unusual path and can mess with things a little in the resistance. The other thing is if this is a two way that is ok. If it is a three way or more it is not recommended. I don’t even know if you could hear the difference. The nice thing is if you use the same speaker cables as the jumper you can try several different options. I have had some people tell me to jump up to the high side so the woofers start first and you might calm down the tweeter if need be.