Bananas rule, spades drool. End of discussion.


I just checked my speaker connections. All using bananas, all nice and tight.

The number of times I’ve had spades get loose instead though.....

Point is, and it really is kind of a tongue in cheek thing, bananas beat spades for long term reliability in almost all setups.  If you have to use a Cardas or Mundorf speaker terminal to ensure your spades stay tight it kind of proves my point.

erik_squires

Hello erik_squires!  Just think about how much contact area there is betwen a banana plug and sleeve it goes in compared to a spade lug tightened down on a quality terminas that sandwhiches it in btween two metal surfaces. The idea is to get the signal from the amp into the speaker, right? With the minimum resistance to the flow of current, right? If you experiment a lot, bananas are quick and easy. You can "stack" them and hook up bunches of speakers in a jiffy. These days, I use locking bananas for my serious setups; no ferrous metals in the signal path. But, if I didn't experiment a lot, I'd use spades. No question. Enjoy the music!

FWIW...I use spades on both ends of my Venom-X cables. With a good "snugging" by hand I never had them come loose.

@tomic601  Brings up a good point, and that is that a lot of spades and the speaker connectors are not given a lot of thought. 

Focal for instance used nickel plated binding posts, which is a very hard material.  Using it with hard spades results in a situation where they will never grip for long. This is why we assemble machine screws with split ring washers, so the spring keeps the screw tight.  No give, no reliability.

WBT makes what I think are the most reliable spade connectors, which use a type of spring to ensure the spade and post stay tight. 

Yes, it's true we want maximum contact area, but have you ever taken apart a female IEC (power) connector, or wall outlet?  The actual contact area at the plug is very small, comparable to the contact area of a good banana.

Lastly, solder is never used in high current installations like power transmission for a reason.  It's brittle and doesn't conduct all that well.  Cold well and tight crimps are the way to go.

There are such things as SOCKETS to TIGHTEN stuff. 

On my FIRST DIY speaker, I simply used copper screws and nuts. As with EVERY bolt on your car, proper tightened with a socket and a wrench, they never come loose, and provide gigantic contact area. 

SO, we we can twist off that childish hand know, figure out what thread size we need, we can then just order us nice nuts. For purist who buy pixel dust by the pound, we could even do soft copper or aluminum (nah, gold) WASHER (to be confirm to the uneven contact surface of the spade; same reason your oil drain plug or banjo bolt on the car have a soft metal washer) and put a stainless nut on.

Since I abstain pixel dust, and constantly plug in/out/move/change my system, I just suffer the terrible sound those bananas provide. 

@akgwhiz  I remember asking for a no solder banana recommendation, and I might have even asked for a spade.  Eventually I went with some affordable silver plated bananas recommended to me by another A'goner and they were perfect for the 12 and 10 gauge cables I needed to make.