Which subwoofer should I get?


Hi - I have the following system:

Magico A5 speakers

Gryphon Diablo 300 integrated

Merging Nadac + Player + Power DAC

Purist Audio cabling

I love my system......but I had the opportunity to use an SVS PB-2000 pro (home theater subwoofer) for a few weeks, and it really improved the overall experience.

I have the opportunity to purchase a REL Carbon Special sub (used) or purchase an SVS SB 3000 Pro. I really like the fact that the SVS subs have so many user adjustable features, and can be adjusted on the fly from an app. I've been told over and over that the sonic qualities of the REL far outweigh the advantages of the SVS subs. Would love to hear from you regarding this issue.

So, in brief, should I go for the REL, the SVS, or some other sub (if so, why?)?

Thanks - Matt

mwsl

SVS SB3000

BOOM, lots of BOOM, this thing had power, but not accuracy. Would be perfect, if I just listened to Techno, Rap.

It's unfortunate that's what you heard.  Where did you hear it, and who set it up?  There's Best Buy and like stores that try to impress with loudness, then there's an experienced hobbyist's home where they are properly set up and integrated with the room and speakers.  What you described hasn't been my experience, unless I intentionally set them up for maximum effect during movies in a home theater system, which is where I started my subwoofer journey.

@mswale  I agree with @big_greg if you heard boom boom from the SB3000 and highly likely that sub wasn’t dialed in properly.  I’m not saying it’s on the same level as the better RELs or JL Labs subs, but it’s definitely not a boom boom sub if set up properly.  Read any review — they all say it works very well for music and no mention of bloom or bloat.  The cynic in me thinks the dealer may have done that on purpose to make the pricier subs sound better because this just doesn’t sound right.  I’ve got an SB2000 and there’s no boom boom whatsoever when the volume/crossover is set properly.  Something stinks here. 

I have a 12 inch Driver subwoofer that's 25 years old from Bowers and Wilkins, ASW 2000. It's a beast.

Would it be a good idea to replace this thing? It still works but I wonder if the quality is very good at this point.

Hey Matt,

I would be careful pairing a REL with your A5’s, Most if not all REL subs incorporate a passive radiator in their designs. The passive radiator dramatically increases the decay and sustain portion of a note or beat. (The four stages of every note or drum beat are attack, decay, sustain and release) Your A5’s being a sealed cabinet design will not do that, so the bass coming out of the REL will sound much fatter than what comes out of the Magico’s and they may not blend well together.

Concerning the high level input, that was created out of necessity. Most home audio at any level, low, mid or high is not designed for the incorporation of a subwoofer. Unless you have separates, or an integrated amp that has preamp outputs and inputs, it’s pretty difficult to send a secondary line level signal to a second amplifier. So if you are a speaker manufacturer and all you make are subwoofers and you want to increase your market share what do you do? Well you create a high level connection that takes that speaker level signal, convert it back to a line level signal that an amplifier and other circuits can handle, process said signal and re-amplify it. Not the best way to make a connection but if that is the only way you can make it, at least you have an option.

James633 is giving you excellent advice.

You also may want to check out the link below.

https://www.acousticsciences.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Soundoctor-Barry-Ober-sub-integration.pdf

Taking it one step farther, Wilson and JL both use their own active crossovers with their subs. 
 

link to wilson’s. 
 

https://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/activ/activxo