!0AWG is difficult to work with, generally the largest gauge that will fit most breakers and AC outlets, and for longer runs they certainly help with supplying needed current for those transients. For me, the easy part of PC for subs is determining gauge, 12AWG in wall, at least 12AWG PC, and so on. As I previously mentioned I've long heard differences in bass delivery to audio equipment, in other words resonant vs more damped down/tightened bass. First time I really noticed this was with an extremely expensive Elrod PC on some Cary monoblocks I was running at the time, I was amazed by how both the quantity and quality of bass was so different from the other cables I had tried up to that point. Ever since then I've been extremely sensitive to how bass quality is affected by PC's. I absolutely require a deep hard hitting bass devoid of even a wiff of the dreaded one note bass, bass should be tuneful and articulate in my book.
Now I will concede that in my system and some others the main speakers may be delivering vast majority of bass frequencies. With my Klipschorns, including modified crossovers and all drivers, careful placement in corners, modified top plates for max seal I get in room frequency response down to aprox. 32hz at my listening position, REL's crossed over at this freq, and this with only one of the hot wires connected to my monoblock amps, volume knob only two or three notches from minimum. So, essentially the REL's are supplying very little bass in my setup, vast majority of benefit I get is with sound staging, In any case, I simply want the sub to be an extension of the main speakers, coherence is paramount, and this important even with the little bass REL's adding to my system. So for max coherence I posit PC's on subs should replicate those used on amps, and even preamps, gauges may vary, topology and metallurgy should match. On the other hand, I can envision a situation in which this may not be optimal, perhaps some systems may require a different recipe for amp/pre vs sub.