Vintage Japanese DD Consult and Suggestions Please

The P3 and GT 2000 Models share a similarity in their design where the Motor / Stator / Bearing Housing are embedded into a Chassis / Plinth.

The P3 Isolates the electric circuits from mechanical influences by having them mounted on their own Sub Plinth that is separated by Spring Couplings from the Chassis / Plinth.

No mate - they are nothing alike other than they are both DD.

P3 has motor/platter/tonearm mounted on a suspended sub-chassis.

P3 Electronics are mounted to the base.

GT2000 does not have a suspension other than rubber feet.

A significant difference also is that the P3 has an inverted bearing and stable platter with a low centre of gravity, the GT2000 has a conventional T ( for topple ) bearing.

Pioneer Exclusive P3/P3a and GT 2000 series nothing alike as Dover said. P3/P3a is an exceptional design.

GT 2000 optional accessory suspension:

https://www.hifido.co.jp/sold/23-39953-15768-00.html

My own observations remain, there are similarities, the statement that was made remains unchanged.

 "The P3 and GT 2000 Models share a similarity in their design where the Motor / Stator / Bearing Housing are embedded into a Chassis / Plinth."

I'm sure a list that is produced, that points out where there are differences between the Two Models will be quite long.

The Newest Design used for a TT, that I  have adopted also mimics the methodology for the mounting of the Mechanical Parts, which is also seen either on the P3 or the  GT 2000.

The earlier design and the methodology for the Mounting of the Mechanical Parts is quite changed. There is no longer in use, a Purpose Produced Chassis that has the mechanical parts attached, which is then seated upon a Purpose Produced Plinth, which over time become available in a variety of designs .

There is a merged Chassis / Plinth  design that has the Mechanical Parts embedded into the material used. 

In relation to Suspension Support, I use a Panzerholz Sub Plinth, which is separated from the Chassis / Plinth using Solid Tech 'Feet of Silence' which Superseded the usage of AT 616 Footers for TT Duties.   

As stated, there are assessments to be undertaken, but not to be rushed into, where the intention is to get an improved understanding of where the merits of the design are showing their strengths. 

Thank you LEWM

Isn’t “GT5000” a reference to Yamaha’s latest TT (not vintage) which is belt driven? With respect, none of the TTs on your list is top drawer among vintage Japanese DD TTs. Here’s my list of the best, all of which are still worth north of $4000:

When expressing an Interest in Vintage Japanese DD TT's, there are two ways to observe them, which are loosely described below:     

1, Is the observation through 'Rose Tinted Glasses' where the assembled product with a unknown hours of usage life of close on 50 Years is not considered.

An individual is somehow missing / avoiding what a 50ish Years in the real world can mean for a TT's Electronics and Mechanical Parts.

2, The Link will show an individual a good insight into what is being bought into, the Link is representative of most Vintage DD TT's to be seen on a Shortlist.

Mechanical Parts are limited and the Electronic Parts are quite substantial and quite complex. 

Mechanical Parts can have had way too many rotations where critical parts are functioning in a non ideal environment, where a minimum negative effect developed is that the axis of the Spindle may not run true, creating a eccentric rotation and speed fluctuation.

Furthering regular usage of a TT with an eccentric rotation in a non ideal environment can lead to excessive wear on a sacrificial part such as a Bush. The excessive wear of a Bush/Bushes can result with a scribing showing on other Sacrificial Parts or even worse, scribing can show on parts that should be a Polished Finish, where scribing that has developed is most likely caused by metal particulate from worn Bushes being encountered in a very dry shaft with all signs of Factory applied lubricant long long dried up or leached from the Bearing Housing the Bearing Housing many many years passed.

Good Luck with the Electronics being Top Drawer, I only know Specialists who can comment on this when they have the TT on their Workbench.

The reality for quite few TT owners of all types from this period is commonly as follows:

I bought a Vintage TT, I Powered on and it rotated, Eureka, I have a perfect TT.

I'm looking for the Perfect Tonearm for my TT, after a Hum and Ha, I've just bought a TA at £2K - £3K - 4K for my Perfectly Working Vintage TT.

I'm now looking for a Cartridge to mount on my TA to get the best out of my Perfect Vintage TT. I am now the proud owner of a £2K - £3K - £4K Cartridge.

My take is use others known for their knowledge on a particular TT, to inform if the Vintage TT is a Perfect TT. Once this is a done deal, spend however one wants on how the other ancillaries are chosen to be used with the TT.    

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/denon/dp-80-3.htm

For the record, all owned TT's are from a Vintage Period and ones Vintage DD ones used daily are brought to a fine fettle, by an individual who knows the Brands very very well and are reputed for their work undertaken. Both Bearing Condition and Overhaul and Electronics Function are addressed when on the Workbench.

The extra outlay for the TT's is a monies very very well spent.