New Maplenoll Ariadne owner needing advice

Another tweak that Bob Dilger told me about way back when is to turn a piece of balsa wood so to fit snugly inside the air bearing tube to dampen resonances there. One could do the same for the arm tube itself. I never did either. Another is to put all connections, splitters, valves, plenums, filters, etc, upstream of the bulk of the air tubing so that air turbulence resonances are smoothed out by the time they reach the arm. The platter is not so sensitive to this. I'm sure we can do much better than the stock Hurst motor, not to mention adding electronics to minimize resonances.

Piedpiper : Thanks. In regards to the motor issue , I aquired a complete motor , base and wall-wart. I will replace the wall-wart with a much better power supply.The motor unit is to be pluged into a line-controller so speed issues will not be a problem.

I have stocked Lo & Hi Teck materals ; most are available at lo-cost. Work is to begin as soon a few buds assist to dismantel the Ari.

The center pin is to be examined for possible replacement. The origional pin was replaced years ago. It is my opinion the center pin is a weak link. I did attempt to have a ceramic-compound pin made but no one wanted to do the job . My tool&die maker friend has retired to somewhere in Germany (ceya). The balsa idea seens to be a good one. But, how do you open the arm tube with the plastic plug already cemented in ?

The plastic plug is not cemented in very well. When i was modifying my arm, i had to tap a new screw thread and found it came out during drilling. There were two plugs in mine. I have also considered replacing the armtube with a solid piece of graphite rod to avoid the resonance factor. Just have not gotten around to completing this yet.

Oilmanmojo : Thanks for the info. charlie

The reason for using Balsa is to keep the overall weight low. Bear this in mind when choosing an alternate material. Perhaps using very high pressure (more than 60PSI) precludes this concern.