Brass door knobs as footers

Hello JB53 -
Guess I haven't priced doorknobs lately!

When I ordered the TT, I got Kevin's KAB Modified Stanton "Groovemaster" MM cartridge. It's a DJ cart but tricked out with nuded canitlever and stereohedron tip (no longer in production and Psychicanimal scarfed up the last few that Kevin had. It has an integrated mount so it doesn't use a head shell.

I've followed many of your posts and if I recall you are running a Denon (103?) with Sumiko headshell that you seem very happy with. When I first started listening to the Stanton - it was kind of darker sounding (I was coming from a Sumiko BluePoint Special (high output MC) and an old Thorens belt drive table. Maybe I've gotten acclimated or something. Or maybe the Stanton is finally broken in - but it sounds great now. I don't feel like I'm missing any high frequency stuff. Oh, I did upgrade from an NAD PP-1 phono pre to a used Lehmann Black Cube along the way since buying the Technics table. It is hard to isolate how these individual changes affected the overall sound. I haven't exactly been following scientific method while upgrading my system.

09-05-07: Ghosthouse
Hello JB53 -
...I've followed many of your posts and if I recall you are running a Denon (103?) with Sumiko headshell that you seem very happy with

You're close. I'm using a Denon, but it's the high output DL160 mounted on the Sumiko HS, tracking at 1.6g.

And I guess I have you to thank on the Dayton speaker cones tip. That $20 certainly improved the sound quality and musical enjoyment a couple of notches.

You are very welcome and glad to have contributed somemthing to someone on Audiogon. This has been a very helpful site to me.

re the vibration "evacuation" concept in practice - it's amazin', ain't it!

Hope we all continue to be able to enjoy the music.

Did any of you using this tweak have a problem with the fitting pulling out of the base of the TT? I was very excited when I read some of the posts on this, but tonight I pulled the fitting out of the TT. The two rear fittings that the studs screw into are loose and seem to pull out before the cone can get flush. Any thoughts? Should I get some shorter studs?

I read someone's post here who dislodged the threaded sleeves from an SL1200 base while screwing in the M6-threaded Mapleshade Heavyfeet. Having read his post, I screwed the Dayton cones in slowly and carefully, and didn't encounter the problem. The vulnerability is that the threaded sleeves are only anchored in the rubber bottom layer.