You guys are absolutely correct. Turntable setup requires a lot of patience and careful adjustment to reap the benefits of that big money outlay. Also, we usually put a new cartridge in the new turntable/arm. The cartridge will be in constant flux...mine was for over 150 hours. What store is going to have that kind of time to put in no matter how much they charge you. Its really not that difficult to set up an arm/cartridge if you are careful and do it yourself. Regarding the JMW arm. When you set it up, don't tighten the Allen screw on the counterweight very tight...this enables you to "coax" the counterweight to accomodate azimuth and VTA without the counterweight moving. Tighten it when satisfied...much easier than trying to do each adjustment seperately. The method SNS used is fine...the rod thing works as well, and the JMW alignment gizmo is fine if done with care..as with all of this. Regarding azimuth adjustment... It is difficult to judge the distance from the rod to the record and have it be equal on both sides. I took two Cardas Myrtle blocks and placed one on each side, then took other wood block of slightly narrower height and put them one on top of each of the Myrtle blocks. The combined blocks both just fit under the rod edges when the arm is perfectly level and sitting on a non-moving record. This enables you to set the arm absolutely level, but in a poorly manufactured cartridge, the stylus may not have been mounted square to the cartridge body. I double check the azimuth by using a top silvered mirror (get it at a camera repair center). Put the arm on the mirror, and carefully look closely down the front of the cartridge. The cantilever and stylus must sit perpendicular to the reflected image. If the stylus is leaning in either direction, I personally would replace the cartridge/stylus.
setting azimuth on VPI turntables
I purchased a VPI Scoutmaster a few weeks ago, being unenthusiatic over the sound, I was considering selling up until last night.
I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.
I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.
I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.
Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.
Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!
Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.
I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.
I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.
Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.
Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!
Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
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- 46 posts total
- 46 posts total