Vinyl sounds a bit thin and slightly strident.


The analog side of my system looks like this:
Benz Micro Ebony H Cartridge(Broken in). VTF around 1.9g.
No Headshell weight.
VPI Scout/JMW-9 Signature Arm(Wired w/Nordost Valhalla)
Cardas Neutral Ref Phono Balanced.
Audio Research PH-2 Balanced Phono Pre
Cardas Neutral Reference IC's
Audio Research LS-7 Preamp w/Electro-Harmonix Tubes from ARC
Cardas Hexlink 5C
Mark Levinson No.331
Purist Audio Design Aqueous Bi-wire
B&W Nautilus 803S
I recently purchased a used Sony 9000ES SACD player and noticed I could listen for extended periods of time and I just kept wanting to play music because it is a great sounding player and very engaging and realized that I'm having a hard time getting as involved with my vinyl rig and I've concluded that the big contributing factors are a lack of bass weight, mid-bass bloom and the top end is a bit strident.
Has anyone else had a problem such as this? And what device(s) should I tweak or change in order to alleviate these sonic characteristics? I suspect my overhang may be off and a contributing factor due to just using the stock VPI protractor. I want to get a Wally Tractor soon.
Any thoughts?
n803nut
Awesome! Thanks. Any thoughts on the component parts and tubes for the LS-7? Jafox(listed above) had stated this:

One thing to do right away is get rid of those ARC supplied EH tubes. These are almost as horrible as the Sovtek. You will not believe how significant Telefunken, Mullard, Amperex, etc., 6922/6DJ8 tubes would make on the LS7. The midrange textures, decays and smoothness in the mids will be quite a surprise.

I agree because I feel the Sovteks were better than the EH tubes if memory serves me correctly. My question is which one to choose?

Any component upgrades would be easy for me to perform. I don't really want to have to change out gear if I don't have to. I feel I could improve on what I already have.
Where do you trust getting the component parts you mentioned?
Parts Connexion/Canada discounts Mundorf caps. Silver/Gold/Oil is Mundorf's new top model. I've been using Silver/Gold (non-oil)version-- it's a great cap but may not have the midrange and LF bloom that you're seeking. You will find these quality as well in the Mundorf Silver Oil cap. I can't recall the values used in the PH-2, but they may be fairly high-- which can get pricey.

Texas Components TX2575 resistors are available directly from TC on a quotation basis @$9-$11. You might want to first try replacing loading & several resistors at input and after listening, work further into the circuit. These .5W metal film resistors have the rare combination of high resolution, sweetness, & warmth. Too expensive for most hi-end manufacturers! Once you try some, you may just forget all about tube rolling and IC upgrades...
I have owned Benz cartridges and ARC phono stages, I agree with most of the comments so far.
First, Benz cartridges excel in the midrange. Do not expect great bass punch from a Benz cartridge. Treble can become desimbodied from the midrange if the VTA or VTF are not spot on. Benz VTA is tricky, as is VTF, due to the narrow stylus profile.
Second, Sony players in general have outstanding bass quality, it will be tough to find a phono combo that will beat your Sony in bass slam...more natural / organic bass is possible, punchier bass is difficcult.

A few suggestions regarding brightness and lean sound:

-Valhalla wire, the transparency-champ! It sounds very detailed and lean. It may be a great choice in the right system or may ruin the tonal balance, specially because it is the first cable in your system.

-EH tubes - I agree with the previous posts, they sound harsh and forward as compared to good NOS tubes.

-Cardas Hexlink is not as full-bodied as Cardas GR or NR.

Lastly, leave the phono preamp on 24/7, it will sound much smoother after a couple of days of warm up.
Good luck
Dgarretson provides good input on the TX2575 resistors. I just replaced 22 resistors in the audio section of a Counterpoint SA-2 with TX2575 and the clarity was greatly improved. I can relate to all the praise that Michael Elliot gave to these resistors when he compared them back in 2007. However they had little to do with the SA-2's incredible portrayal of space which is inherent in the SA-2's overall design. And I suspect such changes here will not be as beneficial as tube rolling (in the LS7) for the improvements in bringing more life to the mids.

Until you get those EH tubes out of the LS7, all the fiddling with cables is only going to result in one set of strengths/weaknesses for another.

I can not suggest a specific 6922 tube for the LS7 because one tube type might be so incredible in one product but be outperformed by another tube in another product. I have no experience with the LS7....only the LS5. And I did not go through the multitude of tube-rolling efforts with the LS5 like I have with other products since I owned the LS5. But the Amperex quite handily outperformed the stock ARC tubes in both the LS5 and the SP-10 that I had before it. There is so much to gain from the trials and patience of trying many tubes in each component.

The Tele 6DJ8 is the king in the SA-2 but in the Aria WV preamp, the Amperex 6922 works like no other. And in the CAT amps that I use, a number of Valvo, Philips and Amperex all work incredibly well; the Telefunken was not a good fit at all here with the result being a most flat presentation. Without trying these in each product, there is just no way to know.

From a view of the circuit board on the LS7, it looks like 2 of the tubes need to be the same but the other two you could try different brands. Maybe try an Amperex 7308 for a little more detail and dynamics and the Tele or Amperex 6922 for more midrange smoothness and bloom.

Once you get a set of tubes here that take the performance to the next level, the IC from the LS7 to your amp will be CRITICAL to achieve that next level of 3D performance.
The variety & multitude of suggested corrections & mods seems fairly overwhelming; who knows it could be any, or a combination, of the above.
One area I haven't seen addressed nor do you mention, is what AC cables you're using. Since the CDP is satisfactory, you might experiment with upgrade AC cord on the phonostage alone. Or line conditioning. Perhaps even footers or an isolation shelf. All of these can change sonic signature to a lesser/greater extent, especially with tube componentry.
Some here would argue that cabling & cords can't possibly affect the sound of a component. However my own tuning experiences with changing AC cords (and to a lesser extent, line conditioning) have proven that a world of difference can certainly be realized.
Just another mystery to throw into the mix - sorry ;-)