PsAudio 300?

I have 2 of them and would not be with out them. One of my best buys! PS Audio will give you a free in home trial period for 30 days(minus shipping). You cant beat that. Do yourself a favor and try them. And NO, I do not work for PS Audio. But I will say thet Paul and PS Audio are one of the best I have ever delt with! Good Luck to You!

I hate to rain down on your parade, but I'd suggest caution. I had PS300 w/Multi and wasn't too impressed. It did lower the noise floor but the music was sapped of its life and dynamism. I had it burned in for almost four weeks, and hooked all my sources to it. I called PS Audio and their suggestion was that I would have to use a PS Lab cable between the wall and PS300. I was using a Zu Cable Birth in that position, which was the best PC I had, but a PS Lab cable was at least $250-300, which would raise the price of PS300 over what I wanted to spend. So in the end I decided it wasn't worth the price and returned it.

I'm not knocking down PS300 necessarily, as I haven't had much success with power tweaks in general. Maybe the power I'm getting is clean enough, as I live out in the middle of corn field. :) But get a used one and see if you like it. If not, you would be able to sell it without taking much hit.

I'm using a P300 to supply everything in the system except the two amps. There was an immediate and obvious improvement as soon as it was plugged in. It's my belief we suffer from poor quality electricity and I believe the P300 helps there, a lot. I don't have the fan. The unit runs hot to the touch but I'm not pulling anywhere near its capacity. I've experimented with the multiwave feature as well as pushing the voltage up and down. I find neither of these features makes any audible difference at all. Some multiwave settings cause the transformer in the DAC to hum. The only real negative to using it is its own transformer hum. Its not too loud but its a definite minus. I'm experimenting with resonance control now to see if it can be minimized. Last, its great protection for the system. We have frequent brown outs. When the line voltage sags, the P300 cuts out and protects everything. Its worth it for that alone.

After doing a lot of reading about these ( never used one myself ), i'd simply pass on that the general consensus is that 300 watts of rated output is somewhat "liberal". Most folks say that they find these to work best and run a LOT cooler with a max of about 180 - 220 watts of draw on them. Since most SS line level gear pulls next to nothing, that shouldn't create a problem for most basic systems. Running tubes or a very component heavy system might be another story.

You have to remember that this is basically an amplifier circuit and go from there. Running any amp at or very near rated power for extended periods of time is typically not a good thing. Maintaining a reasonable level of headroom not only minimizes strain and heat ( making the fan unnecessary ), it increases linearity and can result in increased lifespan with less hassle along the way.

Simply add up the power draw of each unit that you plan on connecting to the PS and see where the total falls. If you're somewhere around 180 - 220 watts or less, you should be okay. This would put you somewhere between 60% and less than 75% of maximum rated output, allowing appr 25% - 40% of headroom within the circuitry. Hope this helps... Sean
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I was looking at some power protection/cleaning as well, also thinking PS300 or 600, and read the comments with interest.

What do you guys do for your amps, if they aren't plugged into the PS units? I was kind of wondering whether I'd cross their power limit with a pair of ARC VT100s (bi-amped for main spkrs) and an ARC D240 (surrounds). I'm also curious, for Martin Logan owners (or other ESL owners), whether plugging such speakers into a PS300/600 has helped...