Which headshell to use?

I also have lightweigh (silver) Orsonic headshell for my Denon DL-107 MM and it was ok.

Later i tried Technics EPA-100 with stock headshell with my Zyx Airy 3 MC and it was ok too. But when i bought heavier Zyx Live 18 headshell for ZyX Airy i was blown away buy the difference in performance, even my girlfriend noticed that. So if the weight of Zyx Live 18 is ok for your cartridge/arm it can be one of the best shell (but it's not cheap option).

The budged option is Audiotechnica Technicard shells, the esiest shell to mount cartridges, pretty good one and must be in collection.

As for audiocraft i'm sure it must be good (i want to try one). I use heavy utracraft shell (by audiocraft) on my Thomas Schick "12 tonearm with low compliance Argent MC500HS cartridge and i like it. Design of this black ultracraft is great.

I can't say much about wooden headshells (like yamamoto sound craft), but a friend of mine has their ebony wood shell for his grado cartridge. Unfortunately this shell cracked after all, not sure why exactly, but that's not good imho (wood is very sensitive to temperature etc). Anyway people love it for DL103 on Schick Arm. There're also titanium headshells in yamamoto soundcraft line...

kk

...could someone please reccommend an appropriate headshell.

I don't believe with a headshell there is a standard of appropriateness that is independent of the overall sound it plays a part in making. That is to say, the appropriate headshell is the one that, along with your cart and tonearm, produces your preferred sound. A consequence of this is that, absent experience with a particular combination, no one can predict which one will work best. Thus, a headshell made of other-worldly materials and with an other-worldly price may not be better for you than the 'cheap' stamped one.

Unfortunately, this means that, like Mofimadness (and myself), you'll end up with a box full of headshells.

Having said all that, here are some considerations to keep in mind when shopping:

1. overhang adjustability: some headshells (e.g., AT mg-10) have pre-set holes and are not adjustable, while others have pre-set holes but are adjustable via a set screw (AT ls-12); but most common are the ones with slots.

2. weight: be sure that your arm can balance the headshell + cart combo

Being close to the source (the cart), I believe headshells are very important. I just experienced a case in point. I recently mounted a victor z1 mm cart onto a cool looking vintage victor headshell made around the same time as the cart. I reasoned that victor wouldn't make a headshell that didn't match well with one of their signature carts. I was wrong: I couldn't get the combo to sound nearly as good as the first combination I tried (z1 with AT ls-12 headshell). Tonight, I tried a 3rd combo: z1 + lp gear zupreme hs): again, significantly different from the first two.

Finally, don't forget the importance of headshell leads. Personally, I prefer and use silver ones (with kondo and ikeda and, soon, zyx wire). Since you're just starting out, I recommend buying some good silver wire and clips and getting someone to make you leads (unless you are good at soldering and can make them yourself). That way, (assuming you would follow the trajectory of the typical neurotic audiophile) you'll save yourself from amassing a graveyard of leads (like I have) that weren't good enough.

Thanks to all for your input so far. Banquo363 it's funny you mention leads because I've read about the importance of high quality connectors. Totally makes sense. In essence they start the chain of events as signal moves through your system. I've been collecting vintage gear for quite some time and have put together some high quality gear for its time. Now it's at a point to attend to the details to get as much out of it as possible. I'm really looking forward to tapping into the brain trust available with this community.

Yes, what banquo said. May I add, I have found that a $30 jelco can be the best choice for a particular cart while I use a $100 cherrywood Yamamoto with my Denon 103. I have an sme 3009 but have found that the sme headshell with holes all over is the poorest performer. Choose heavier solid for better sound ~ aside from all/magnesium I use ebony, cherry wood, and graphite depending on the cart.

I also agree with silver headshell leads. I do not like silver connecting preamp to amp or digital to line stage or speakers. But I have found as mush silver as possible from cartradge through phono to line input is best sounding for me ~ I use VDH silver.

Surely the leds are important but silver or copper is a matter of taste. Also if your tonearm internal/external wires are copper what's the point to use silver led wires in headshell or vise-versa? If your cartridge coil is copper why you need silver wires or vise-versa? Some of the best tonearms use one set of wires from cartridge to your phono stage.

About Audio-Technica headshell with fixed screw holes:
Yes there are no slots to move cartridge in headshell but on the backside of the AT Technicard or Magnesium headshell you will find at least two sets of mounting holes. The most important thing about this type of AT shells is FULLY ADJUSTABLE OVERHANG AND AZYMUTH and with thus option you don't need any slots, you move the whole shell to adjust cartridge with your protractor!