What are 6 feet going to do for me?


After doing my homework, and listening to many line, power, and regenerator conditioners I went with the Audio Magic Stealth. I love it. Now here's the deal. The person I bought it from said that I may want to, one day, consider an Elrod ac. He said the difference is amazing. PS Audio suggests their expensive ac for added greatness to their stuff, What is going to happen in 6 feet, (from hospital grade outlet to Stealth), that my Stealth, or any of these conditioners, can't do? All my electronics are fed into the Stealth using Lat International cords. Should I get all Elrods for $6000? Where do I stop? I would think that the electric that comes out of my Stealth is ready for my components. What else needs to be done? Are the power cords overkill at this point? If I didn't have my Stealth, would hooking up all my components with Elrods be the thing to do? Would I still need my Steath or any of the other possibilites?
128x128warrenh
Interesting hypothesis regarding inductance. If this is true (certainly it could be) then how in the world does *adding* inductance (via the PS Audio Power Port) reportedly improve some rigs to a significant degree? Just seems contradictory to me; BTW I do not have a PS Audio.
My own exeriences have demonstrated that every one of these tweaks adds an improvement & they all work better when combined. I have a low inductance dedicated AC line, Wattgate 381 outlet, Chang Lightspeed line conditioners, some very expensive upgrade AC cords.
Twl advises well above; all systems work differently & we all hear differently. The only way to know what's actually going to happen at your own house is to experiment extensively. Wish that there were an easier & cheaper way, but half the fun is getting there.
Ozfly wrote:
1) Would larger/more capacitors negate the need for a low inductance cord (i.e., is there a substitution effect?)

To some extent, this is true, although there are effects from the inductance of the traces and wires in the power supply as well that are not improved by adding more caps. There is also the added inductance due to the size of these caps and the surface area that they consume on the circuit-board etc... Adding more caps does not necessarily improve the transient response either, since caps, particularly large ones, tend to have large internal resistance. Adding smaller low "ESR" caps can sometimes be more effective and they consume very little space. Power supplies that respond well to high-power transients at all frequencies usually have a mix of different cap sizes and types.
2) Are shorter cords better than longer cords since the inductance would decrease?
Absolutely. Like all cables in audio, shorter is always better, unless of course you are using the cable as a tone control, whihc I do not recommend.
Warrenh wrote:
Since you say that cheaper cords have higher inductance than the more expensive ones: Is it possible to find a $200 cord with the same inductance as one for $1000?
I suppose it is possible. Generally, the things that cause inductance to be low tend to make the cord big, inflexible and more expensive due to more individual wires inside. It is more likely that you will find a cord with less profit built-in that is low-inductance.
Is there a way to know what the exact inductance rating, if there is such a thing,is?
Absolutely. This can be measured with an LCR meter at several frequencies. I like to use 20kHz. All my cords and cables have published measurements. Unfortunately, I am the only manufacturer that I am aware of that publishes power cord characteristics. I believe the reason is that most vendors do not really understand why their cables work or modify the character of the sound. They also are probably suspicious of inductance being the primary factor. They amay be afraid that if they were to publish their inductance numbers, their cables would not rate well. Many of them feel that cords should do some level of filtering. I have found this to be detrimental myself. There are probably situations, particularly with line-level components where filtering the line current could make an improvement, but I believe that the vast majority of these can be attributed to common-mode noise from ground-loops in the systems. Filtering the power-cord is a band-aid at best and does not get at the root-cause of the problem, which is the ground-loop.
If so, is there, then, any other reason to get the $1,000 over the $200 one given identical inductance stats? OR, do we just assume the inductance level is low because they are expensive?
There may be reasons, such as lower dielectric absorption. The use of Teflon insulation in one cord and PVC insulation in another cord with the same inductance can make a difference in the transient response, because their dielectric absorption willl be different. This is a more difficult parameter to measure, and its effects are more subtle. I would be willing to bet that you would notice the difference, though. It gets down to splitting hairs at this point. And, you cannot expect the inductance to be low just because the cost is high. Many cables are sold at prices that people are willing to pay, due to hype, advertising, reputation etc... has nothing to do with performance.
And, how low is low? Do we get to a point of inaudible differences?
Low would be <.05uH/foot. As far as point of diminishing returns, I believe this depends on your amplifier power supply. If it is really poorly designed, you will probably hear improvements for every notch you go lower all the way to .00001 uH/foot. Also depends on how much ROMEX there is in the wall, after all the last 6 feet of a 25 foot run behaves much different than the last 6 feet of an 8 foot run. For all practical purposes, <.01uH/foot is impractical and probably could not be built without using superconductors or really wide copper strips, like a Goertz cable.
Audioengr, you say that "like all cables in audio, shorter is always better." I speak with no engineering authority, but I want to suggest that this may not be true with power cords.

If shorter were better, than no cord at all would be best. Why not just continue the Romex out from the wall and hardwire it into the component? (Has anyone tried this?) This would be the equivalent of no power cord since the PC's function is simply to handle that last six feet anyway.

I think our collective experience would predict that hardwiring in this way would not be better, at least not better that what some of the great PCs do for our systems. This is because these cords are not merely supplying the last six feet but are also doing *something* to the power--filtering or whatever--to improve what gets to our components. If this is the case, it could be reasonable to conclude that longer might in fact be better because it will provide more of that whatever-it-is it's doing.

As someone once put it to me: If you like what your power cord does to the sound of your system, why wouldn't you want more of that?
Warren,

From my experience I'd say that this is all incrimental. I'm using a Stealth too and yes things do get better again when you upgrade the cable that is feeding it. I would not say that the improvement is as dramatic as when I first installed my Stealth, but it's there. The question is how much money do you want to spend. It seems that there is no end to this power stuff. Don't go crazy with spending tons of money. I upgrade and play with things a little at a time when my cash flow permits.