How can i ......

Maybe a homemade gear puller type of approach, threaded rod that will push it slowly out from the rear as you turn the rod. You can make a wood support frame that clamps the box from the front and rear with only the rod pushing from the rear as you turn the screw against the rear. Hope you understand what I'm getting at?

I think Marty may be right. It may be attached from the back side. See if you can see anything with a flashlight from the back or what. You will be working a long time prying it out if the woofer is screwed in. Many modern things aren't designed to come apart (easily) once they are put together. Arthur

Sean, you're gonna go "bonsai" on that thar rassafrassin' driver? You mean you're gonna sculpt Japanese trees on it? Hah!

If you decide to go "banzai" on it, I'd definitely see if there's a way to get around the back to verify nothing is keepin' that bugger in there other than glue or caulk.

If you don't find clips or internal screws on the back side I think prying it may be the only way, and unfortunately the scariest because you wouldn't want to bend the woofer assembly or damage the cabinet.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

As for attachments from the rear of the driver, i can't find anything. As it is right now, i have limited access to getting into the cabinet though. This makes everything rather difficult. The funny thing is that this is an older subwoofer and all of the glue that was used on the binding post plate and ports ( 2 of them ) is still holding like it was freshly applied. I had a helluva time just getting into the box at all. I guess that they built things to last 15 years ago and didn't plan on having to do maintenance EVER : )

In case you are wondering, this is a big, old Sumo Samson that i found at a local shop. It is about the size of a big end table ( 29" long x 22" tall and 19" deep ) and weighs 120+ lbs. I can't believe how good of shape this thing is in, especially for its' age. Factory specs show 25 Hz - 120 Hz +/- 1.5 dB's and with the JBL that it has inside of it, should produce GOBS of output and take a real beating.

Due to the physical size and the fact that it is passive ( requires external amplification), they couldn't give it away to the "make it small, simple and hook it up for me" HT crowd. As such, i was able to snag it for $40 and they even helped me load it into the vehicle : ) At that price, i couldn't pass it up as i could sell the JBL ( which looks brand new ) for 2 - 3 times what i paid for it. Since my Dad doesn't have a sub and only has two 10's and two 8's in his HT mains ( how it must feel to be deprived ... ), i figured this would help him out : )

If worse comes to worse, i will probably end up cutting a section out of the back panel, installing a high quality "plate" amplifier and adding stuffing to the cabinet to make up for the loss of internal volume that the amp takes up. Does anyone have suggestions here in terms of a good plate amp ? Obviously, i'd like something that is well built, offers great control and a "good" amount of power. Clickable links would be nice and yes, i'd like fries with that too : ) Sean
>

Gunbei: Maybe i was thinking of "bon voyage" due to the thoughts of having to hit the driver with a hammer / 2 x 4 to dislodge it : )

Round 2: [Act of desperation]
Find a narrow hall way or a door jam and place a wood support against the wall and behind the magnet structure of the driver. Position a 2X4 behind the wood support protecting the magnet cover of the driver; making sure the 2X4 is long enough to extend beyond the cabinet. Position a scissor jack etc. between the wood support for the wall and the 2X4, then extend.