How can i ......

Sean, you're gonna go "bonsai" on that thar rassafrassin' driver? You mean you're gonna sculpt Japanese trees on it? Hah!

If you decide to go "banzai" on it, I'd definitely see if there's a way to get around the back to verify nothing is keepin' that bugger in there other than glue or caulk.

If you don't find clips or internal screws on the back side I think prying it may be the only way, and unfortunately the scariest because you wouldn't want to bend the woofer assembly or damage the cabinet.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

As for attachments from the rear of the driver, i can't find anything. As it is right now, i have limited access to getting into the cabinet though. This makes everything rather difficult. The funny thing is that this is an older subwoofer and all of the glue that was used on the binding post plate and ports ( 2 of them ) is still holding like it was freshly applied. I had a helluva time just getting into the box at all. I guess that they built things to last 15 years ago and didn't plan on having to do maintenance EVER : )

In case you are wondering, this is a big, old Sumo Samson that i found at a local shop. It is about the size of a big end table ( 29" long x 22" tall and 19" deep ) and weighs 120+ lbs. I can't believe how good of shape this thing is in, especially for its' age. Factory specs show 25 Hz - 120 Hz +/- 1.5 dB's and with the JBL that it has inside of it, should produce GOBS of output and take a real beating.

Due to the physical size and the fact that it is passive ( requires external amplification), they couldn't give it away to the "make it small, simple and hook it up for me" HT crowd. As such, i was able to snag it for $40 and they even helped me load it into the vehicle : ) At that price, i couldn't pass it up as i could sell the JBL ( which looks brand new ) for 2 - 3 times what i paid for it. Since my Dad doesn't have a sub and only has two 10's and two 8's in his HT mains ( how it must feel to be deprived ... ), i figured this would help him out : )

If worse comes to worse, i will probably end up cutting a section out of the back panel, installing a high quality "plate" amplifier and adding stuffing to the cabinet to make up for the loss of internal volume that the amp takes up. Does anyone have suggestions here in terms of a good plate amp ? Obviously, i'd like something that is well built, offers great control and a "good" amount of power. Clickable links would be nice and yes, i'd like fries with that too : ) Sean
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Gunbei: Maybe i was thinking of "bon voyage" due to the thoughts of having to hit the driver with a hammer / 2 x 4 to dislodge it : )

Round 2: [Act of desperation]
Find a narrow hall way or a door jam and place a wood support against the wall and behind the magnet structure of the driver. Position a 2X4 behind the wood support protecting the magnet cover of the driver; making sure the 2X4 is long enough to extend beyond the cabinet. Position a scissor jack etc. between the wood support for the wall and the 2X4, then extend.

Perhaps a solvent? The first one to come to mind is nail polish remover, but a good cabinet maker would know better than I would. How about applying just a little overnight and see if that loosens it up. The punchline is to use little enough to not let gravity carry it to the glues in the driver.

Sean,

It's doubtful that there is any other type of clamps, etc. used to secure this to the cabinet. The screws were likely the only thing, so you have essentially a glued in place, press fit driver. The cabinet front is going to get chewed up a bit as I think you will need to use more of the screw driver/block tactic. See if you can get a couple of other helpers to simultaneously pry around the edge. Striking the driver from behind is the absolute last resort, IMHO. The driver flange can be straightened after removal, no sweat. But if the basket is bent from hitting the magnet, you're screwed. So, is your rear access via the crossover hole? The only other approach I can think of, assuming the driver flange or part of it is visible from the back, is a curved flat of the same diameter. I hope I make this clear so just visualize a piece of steel bent to the flange diameter. This could be a 3 or 4 inch piece. You may need to weld a handle on this for striking purposes. Tap or strike this tool as you move it around the driver. Eventually it will work lose but will, like said previously, probably bring some cabinet out with the driver. Holy cow, this is like working on my hot rod and trying to explain concepts gets increasingly tough. Is there a way to attach bolts to the flange with the threads facing away from the cabinet front? If so, you can fashion some metal straps to the bolts and use a slide hammer. Good luck. I'm out of ideas.