FR64S tonearm overhaul

If anything, leave the internal wiring (and therefore the bearings, etc) alone. Just remove the DIN plug altogether and solder directly to the internal wiring where it meets the DIN plug leads, so as to create a straight shot from headshell to phono input. You can do that without de-constructing the entire tonearm.

It sounds like the consensus is to leave it completely alone. I just thought an overhaul may be in order due to the age of the internal wiring. I have not yet had the chance to listen to it because I will need to make another armboard and riser to mount it to my TW AC3. Looking forward to seeing how it compares to my RMG 309 with the SPU cartridges.

If it's in excellent condition externally, it's unlikely that any significant degradation of the internal wiring has occurred, and if it did, you will soon know it, because the circuit would short itself out if bare wires are touching each other or touching the inner walls of the arm tube. (This assumes that the degradation would involve the insulation; the conductors per se should be ok no matter what, altho naked copper would eventually oxidize. Oxidized copper is not so conductive; oxidized silver is as good as pure silver.)

Nandric described it well.
I had both Arms, silver wired and copper wired. The silver wire can transport 6% more information based on its structure than copper (AES Standard copper in purest=100, Ag=106).
You hear at once a deeper soundstage, a better headroom and the details are bit more precise and present. that wired Arm is a touch closer to a real thing reproduction. Of course I sold the copper wired Arm :-)

Btw. my FR-66s is also silver wired ....

Dear Lew, The only sense I can discover in your proposal
is that this way one can check if the wire is copper or
silver. Assuming of course that the silver marking is lost.
Why should whomever remove the 5 Din connector?
The only reason I can think of is the conviction that one
can make somethig better instead. If so one should produce
those an get rich.