More Power is always good?

Some of the equation can be answered by your listening habits . If you are not interested in extreme or loud playback levels and acoustic as well as intimate jazz is your cup of tea you may well not need excessive power reserves. I would err on the side of too much for reasons that your musical taste may alter or friends may want to pop in Kraftwerk at 109 db . System synergy with your preamp , speaker sensitivity , nominal ohm rating , room and listening tastes are quite a balancing act.The larger the room for instance , the more power you will probably need to get the same level of playback in a smaller room . The rule I use is how good is the first watt in reproducing the sonic characteristics you deem important. Is dynamic range more important than space retrieval? Is bottom end extension more important than midrange accuracy? Your choice and your system. Thats what makes this hobby so personal and thought provoking.

51, there just seems so much wrong with your conjecture -

-covered with absorbtion = traffic - no, reflections due to lack of absorbtion equal unwanted traffic
-large amp - hard to get signal through - huh? Want to explain that?
- speakers weigh tons - hard to get signal through - huh (again) - for every large inefficient speaker, I can show you one that's extremely efficient - in fact large and heavy horns are one of the most efficient.
- large speaker wire usually equates to lower resistance, or easier for the good 'ol signal to get through.

So your equation of what makes for good music leaves me very confused.

"So your equation of what makes for good music leaves me very confused."

Snofun3, me thinks he works for DK Designs.:-)

that's mister 51......

Ok ....look at it this way.I know it sounds like i'm on crack ,but try to look at your whole system as one.

I used to look at the numbers game myself.I used to own mega YBA amps,and yba signature pre etc...watt pups.So i know about heavy & massive.

So we start at the fusebox,the energy vibrates and goes to the cd.It picks up the signal.The super delicate signal must remain whole.It is hitching a ride on your energy.If the wire is too massive the energy is not vibrating at is close to native frequency.The more mass the energy meets the less it vibrates.The weaker your signal.Then more wire,heavy preamp kills more of the energy.Imagine when you cryo a wire ,the molecules are even more dense then original. Even less air for the energy to vibrate through.The signal is jammed with traffic.Need lots of juice to force it through.POWER.So just follow the pattern to a heavy amp which blocks the vibration etc...

Once you hit your speakers ,most assume the ride is over.Actually the air is now moved ,VIBRATION.your floor and walls (room) are part of the WHOLE.The walls need to vibrate in order to continue the communication.Killing the musical notes is not the way.Absorption of any kind will affect the whole.Cement walls that don't vibrate are ???.Some say to put up 2 layers of drywall to make it rigid....what do you think that does to your vibration?

I'm not pushing any one product over another.All i want you to understand is it works together as a whole ,vibrating like a light .....musical instrument...

I don't care about....tubes vs. SS...analog vs.cd...horns vs.cone drivers etc...american vs.europe.No names are better or worse ....They are tools to work with and produce music.We tend to collect components instead of applying our art to let the signal BE.

Guys....

This is a stripped dvd....very light weight,ounces.It is allowed to vibrate.You don't need to go as far.This dvd is 70$.Don't go stripping the mega $$$ cd players....please.

http://theshowreport.com/tunelandpics/cdimipics/cdimi53005/pics2060.jpg

Don't let the weird ,"hey this guy is on crack" fool you.If you hear this thing sing,you will sell your gear...LOL