2. amps-preamps
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More Power is always good?

Hi all,

I'm a little lost in my search for the amp. Does more power (like more than 100W) means good?

I have been around listening to various amps, maybe a little too much that confused me.

Say for a room of 16ft by 20ft. What is the optimum power requirement?

For example, once I heard the Sugden A21Se (Class A 30W) driving the Spendor S6E, everything was nice except that I found that the basss definition and extension is lacking which is a concern to me, the showroom was smaller than my room. That's why I'm looking for amp with more power (like 100W), am I wrong? Will Class A amp like Sugden MasterClass or Accuphase E530 or Lavardin or others similar amp with power rating of 30W-50W be sufficient?

by the way I am using the old SF Grand Piano Home. I'm looking for a good amp that will outlast the GP Home, i.e. I don't have to change amp when i change the GP Home.

Any comments?

Thank you.
pingpong
snofun3
601 posts
 
51, there just seems so much wrong with your conjecture -

-covered with absorbtion = traffic - no, reflections due to lack of absorbtion equal unwanted traffic
-large amp - hard to get signal through - huh? Want to explain that?
- speakers weigh tons - hard to get signal through - huh (again) - for every large inefficient speaker, I can show you one that's extremely efficient - in fact large and heavy horns are one of the most efficient.
- large speaker wire usually equates to lower resistance, or easier for the good 'ol signal to get through.

So your equation of what makes for good music leaves me very confused.
jmcgrogan2's avatar
jmcgrogan2
6,346 posts
 
"So your equation of what makes for good music leaves me very confused."

Snofun3, me thinks he works for DK Designs.:-)
c5150
115 posts
 
that's mister 51......

Ok ....look at it this way.I know it sounds like i'm on crack ,but try to look at your whole system as one.

I used to look at the numbers game myself.I used to own mega YBA amps,and yba signature pre etc...watt pups.So i know about heavy & massive.

So we start at the fusebox,the energy vibrates and goes to the cd.It picks up the signal.The super delicate signal must remain whole.It is hitching a ride on your energy.If the wire is too massive the energy is not vibrating at is close to native frequency.The more mass the energy meets the less it vibrates.The weaker your signal.Then more wire,heavy preamp kills more of the energy.Imagine when you cryo a wire ,the molecules are even more dense then original. Even less air for the energy to vibrate through.The signal is jammed with traffic.Need lots of juice to force it through.POWER.So just follow the pattern to a heavy amp which blocks the vibration etc...

Once you hit your speakers ,most assume the ride is over.Actually the air is now moved ,VIBRATION.your floor and walls (room) are part of the WHOLE.The walls need to vibrate in order to continue the communication.Killing the musical notes is not the way.Absorption of any kind will affect the whole.Cement walls that don't vibrate are ???.Some say to put up 2 layers of drywall to make it rigid....what do you think that does to your vibration?

I'm not pushing any one product over another.All i want you to understand is it works together as a whole ,vibrating like a light .....musical instrument...

I don't care about....tubes vs. SS...analog vs.cd...horns vs.cone drivers etc...american vs.europe.No names are better or worse ....They are tools to work with and produce music.We tend to collect components instead of applying our art to let the signal BE.

c5150
115 posts
 
Guys....

This is a stripped dvd....very light weight,ounces.It is allowed to vibrate.You don't need to go as far.This dvd is 70$.Don't go stripping the mega $$$ cd players....please.

http://theshowreport.com/tunelandpics/cdimipics/cdimi53005/pics2060.jpg

Don't let the weird ,"hey this guy is on crack" fool you.If you hear this thing sing,you will sell your gear...LOL
gene888
8 posts
 
Hi PingPong,

Just my $.02 here. For maximum flexibility, you will probably want to go with a solid state amplifier that can deliver around 200 watts. This will drive almost any speaker at any level you will probably ever want to try.

More power is not necessarily better. It depends on how "clean" that power is, and what kind of distortion is introduced. Amplifiers which introduce lots of odd-order harmonics (which many cheaper solid-state amps do) can sound unnatural. Some people believe that tubes sound better because they introduce mainly even-order harmonics, which gives them a more natural sound (though there is much debate about this topic).

Also consider if you like keeping your gear on all the time. If you run the amp all day long, solid state is definitely the way to go (maybe with a tube pre-amp). Good luck!
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