Tung-Sol Reissue 6SN7 vs EH 6SN7 - Differences


I ordered a matched pair of the new Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB tubes being made in Russia for my Supratek Chenin preamp and have been listening to them versus the stock 6SN7EH tubes. The Tung-Sols sound a bit fuller in tone than the EH, while retaining the bass and treble extension of the EH - in short, I prefer the Tung-Sols.
Before listening, I examined the two tubes very closely side-by-side, and could not see any differences in construction other than the fact that the Tung-Sol has a black plate and the EH has a gray plate. I was expecting them to sound identical, but I noticed the fuller tone of the Tung-Sol right away. I decided to contact New Sensor and ask them what the difference between these tubes really was.
They answered my email within an hour or so, as follows:

"The Tung-Sol 6SN7 has internal differences. The internal geometry is different and the grids are gold plated."

If we take them at their word, the Tung-Sols are not merely re-badged EHs as has been suggested by some. Thoughts? Anyone else have the same listening impressions as me?
ait
Hi seems like some of this is system dependent.

In my BAT VK75SE (now 150SE) I had RCA 6sn7's. softer on top, little more real, but lost the dynamics and punch and texture of the russian 6h8c's. I ran the RCA's for a year before I went back to the 6h8c's.

Doug: what are you running in your 75SE right now? I'm due soon for a retube, and can't decide on the 6h8c's or the EH's or Tung sols...

Thanks
Concerning the Sylvania 6SN7W: Of the two types(short/Tall, with either metal or plastic base) The tall have exquisite sound stage, imaging, dynamics in all octaves and transparency. The short are equals everywhere, but- have a tremedous amount of energy in the upper freq.s, and- If your system is at all bright: they will singe your ear hairs. The other Holy Grail of the 6SN7 family is the TungSol 6SN7GT round plate, bottom getter(not the mouse ear)from the 40's. Everything the Sylvania has with a slightly deeper sound stage. That's what I get when using them in my Carys anyway. Another tube that is very close in sound to these is the Syvania CHS/6SN7GT/VT-231 bottom getter from the 40's. Just a little less sound stage depth, but the same liquidity and transparency(much less expensive). Another less expensive entry to NOS tubes in this family is the Ken-Rad VT231 bottom getter from the 40's. I've only included the tubes that exhibit the greatest transparency/least coloration. Yes- It's hard to find these tubes in closely matched pairs and they are expensive, BUT- as stated: They will improve your system like an equipment upgrade, and are worth the time and every dime! The Sylvania 6SN7W was the only top-getter tube that I found worthwhile.
IMHO, if you are using new production 6sn7's in any critical spots in your audio gear, you really don't know how good your system can sound until you try the vintage 6sn7's, i.e., the tung sol round plate, the Sylvania 6sn7w, or even the more reasonably priced RCA 6sn7GT grey glass. All of these are better than any new production 6sn7's. However, if you are using the new tubes in circuits that do not critical effect sound they might suffice.
jfrech, not sure if it's me you're asking, but in the input section of the 75SE I'm using 6SN7EH, Tung Sol reissue 6L6, and 6H30pi/EB. The new Tung Sol 6L6 has great tone, and IME there is only a slight gain in this unit with NOS 6H30DR.

I noticed you've added some nice cables to your system. I strongly suggest you consider replacing the two-foot lengths of $.40/ft IC cable used inside the 150SE.

Dave
sorry Dave on your name !

I guess I'll order (gulp) 12 of the EH 6sn7's and I will try the Tung Sol 6v6's. I think my 6h30's a good a little longer, using a 2 yr old set of dr's from when I retubed my 51se last. I wish I would have bought a pile of the DR's then. But I agree with you, at these prices, maybe I can live with the pi/eb's.

I have been reading your posts on the 75se mods. I do feel squeemish buying this expensive interconnect/power cords then open the covers on some gear. Also, I have that same "cable" connecting both halfs of my amps internally as part of the bridging circuit. Using what looks like automotive type plastic connectors via another 6 inches or so of wire.

How hard is the rewire job? BTW, What part of the world do you live in?