Dedicated lines

Markus1299, assuming you use the same wire to extend the length of your three dedicated lines, after break-in, I don’t think you will hear a difference in sound or have any type of voltage drop..

Ckoffend, I don’t know what “hospital grade cabling” consists of that your electrician is recommending. I remember reading years ago that 10 gauge stranded cabling with ground twisted (such as put in drill and twist while elongating) is the way to go. This must then be run in conduit. It’s usually easier and costs less to run Romex, and I’m not convinced that you will hear a difference in sound.

The only hospital grade cable I am aware of is type AC or MC (armored) hospital grade cable.

http://www.afcweb.com/pdfs/afc_cable_catalog/afc_hcf_lite_120_0704.pdf

.

Thanks guys for your input. Is there a prefered splicing guide somewhere that I might consult or is it just a twist and shield situation?

First in reply to the questions/comments about hospital grade, I spoke in more detail to my electrician. The power cabling was NM/MC, which means it used non-metalic wires (no aluminum, etc. . . purer copper - so to speak). Secondly, the MC stands for metal shielded (everything was run inside a metal conduit for shielding purposes). At least this is what my notes indicate from my conversation, which does not rule out the possibility that my abbreviations may be incorrect.

Secondly, looking for feedback from others who have upgraded to dedicated lines. Did you notice any changes during the burn-in period? When I first hooked everything back up, I found that my sound had worsened actually. My bass lost a far amount of tightness and focus overall was negatively affected. This is what lead me to speak more at length with the electrician. I ran my system for a straight 24 hours (and also moved my speakers slightly) and noticed a significant improvement after just this 24 hour period. Since I moved my speakers a couple of inches, it could be JUST this, but I doubt it.

Is this in line with what others have found?

Thanks guys for your input. Is there a prefered splicing guide somewhere that I might consult or is it just a twist and shield situation?
08-10-09: Markus1299

Markus are you going to do this job yourself or are you having an electrician do the job? I assume from looking at your system you will hire an electrician.

The electrician you hire will have his preferences how he likes to make a splice.

I would recommend he first twist the (2) #10 solid conductors together clockwise.
Then cut off the end of the twisted pair even, leaving about 1" of bare copper showing.
Next install a grey Scotchlok Electrical Spring Connector over each twisted pair of #10 wires.

If you want an air tight connection solder the wires after they have been twisted together and then install the grey Scotchlok over the wires.

The Scotchlok should be turned on clockwise as tight as possible..... tight..... for the spring connector to work properly.