Dedicated lines

Thanks guys for your input. Is there a prefered splicing guide somewhere that I might consult or is it just a twist and shield situation?

First in reply to the questions/comments about hospital grade, I spoke in more detail to my electrician. The power cabling was NM/MC, which means it used non-metalic wires (no aluminum, etc. . . purer copper - so to speak). Secondly, the MC stands for metal shielded (everything was run inside a metal conduit for shielding purposes). At least this is what my notes indicate from my conversation, which does not rule out the possibility that my abbreviations may be incorrect.

Secondly, looking for feedback from others who have upgraded to dedicated lines. Did you notice any changes during the burn-in period? When I first hooked everything back up, I found that my sound had worsened actually. My bass lost a far amount of tightness and focus overall was negatively affected. This is what lead me to speak more at length with the electrician. I ran my system for a straight 24 hours (and also moved my speakers slightly) and noticed a significant improvement after just this 24 hour period. Since I moved my speakers a couple of inches, it could be JUST this, but I doubt it.

Is this in line with what others have found?

Thanks guys for your input. Is there a prefered splicing guide somewhere that I might consult or is it just a twist and shield situation?
08-10-09: Markus1299

Markus are you going to do this job yourself or are you having an electrician do the job? I assume from looking at your system you will hire an electrician.

The electrician you hire will have his preferences how he likes to make a splice.

I would recommend he first twist the (2) #10 solid conductors together clockwise.
Then cut off the end of the twisted pair even, leaving about 1" of bare copper showing.
Next install a grey Scotchlok Electrical Spring Connector over each twisted pair of #10 wires.

If you want an air tight connection solder the wires after they have been twisted together and then install the grey Scotchlok over the wires.

The Scotchlok should be turned on clockwise as tight as possible..... tight..... for the spring connector to work properly.

CKoffend, wire/cable cannot be type NM and MC at the same time. You must have misunderstood what the electrician told you. Type NM (non-metallic) is your typical Romex. Type MC (metal clad) is armored cable. The armor may be either aluminum or steel. There is no standard wire/cable with "purer" or "less purer" copper. The only advantage to hospital grade cable is that it has an insulated ground wire which serves as a redundant ground. The metal casing of standard armored cable normally serves as the ground.

What was installed, based on my reviewing the runs, was inside metal conduit (which i believe is code in my area considering how it was run - semi exposed in a "crawl space" ceiling. There were 3 wires + - ground.

You are right though, that I could have very easily been confused as to the NM/MC as we/he discussed both during my conversation with him.