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Psvane Teflon capacitors real or fakes?

These are great looking capacitors and supposed to be competing against the Audience, Rel, V-Cap, and Sonicap Teflon capacitors. A couple of my tweaky friends who have no end to new capacitors gave them a try and had one quit after a month or so, and with the wire cut off, no return possible. So they cut it open, yes they are curious, and according to them, the guts looked like mylar, measured like mylar??? Could these not be Teflon caps after all??? I open this for discussion with some of the tweaky electonic minds out there to get to the bottom of this. If they are not genuine teflon, I would not want fellow audiophiles to get ripped by another false claim. But to be fair, real verifiable data should be submitted here, no guesswork. I trust my friends, but I did not do the test, so I open it to other philes. Hey, I like a great deal too, but if it is not as advertised, I get pissed too. Take a look fellow philes, and lets solve the mystery....Jallen
jallen
terry9
2,351 posts
 
Hello Jallen.

I tested tin V-caps against RelCap teflons for my RIAA eq, one set on each side. Found the RelCaps more to my taste. The V-Caps appeared too shrill to both my wife and myself. Solen teflon were also very good. System was vinyl with ESL's.

Using a switch box, I tested larger caps as amplifier input filters. Solen teflon vs MIT Multicap styrene RTX went to Solen. RTS also sounded good, but with less edge - I'm not sure if this is desirable or not - the edge may be missing from my vinyl, and the teflon may be putting it back. MIT MFXS polypropylene sounded a little less precise than the RTX, and Solen polyp a little less precise than that. To my ears in an AB comparison.

I DON'T like teflon with digital.

Hope that helps a bit.
terry9
2,351 posts
 
Should read

RTX also sounded good ...
jallen OP
502 posts
 
I have heard good things about the REL's, but have read several reviews where the V-Caps were the preferred caps. What was your break-in time for both caps, and what technique did you do to break them if you did. I have used many caps in the past and some do sound much different with 500 hours on them of pink noise, and cycling every 12 hours. Thanks, Jallen
jallen OP
502 posts
 
I have tried the RTX and found them to be a bit compressed sounding, lacking space between instruments. The V-Caps were shrill out of the box, and then went dark at about 200 hours, and at somewhere between 400-500 hours, they became glorious, and all of a sudden everything in the system became suspect. My prior caps were adding a color to the system and removing a layer allowed me to find other weak links. The v-caps allowed the top end to extend like never before....sweet, extended and open. I want to try the CUTF ones, and saw the PSVANE ones, but you can read the story for yourselves. Every circuit may find a different favorite cap, but I believe break in is essential prior to serious evaluation. I have found teflon caps, wires, hookup wire, etc. take a lot of time to break in. I have tried solens and they are OK in a Xover, but not a coupling cap. I use v-Caps, teflon/tin and have trouble finding a description to how they sound. Every recording is so different, their feat is just to get out of the way of the music and let it flow. For a budget cap, I like the Theta polypropylene cap by REL, if you want a decent cap for little money. They are good, but no V-Cap. Arthur Salvatore did an extensive cap eval. and used the REL and V-caps. I have just not found much about the CUTF from V-CAP yet. They may give a mellower sound than the tinfoil ones. Jallen
rodman99999
6,160 posts
 
A streamlined burn-in solution: (http://phonoclone.com/diy-rack.html) The last sentence applies to the film caps, that this thread addresses.
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