Psvane Teflon capacitors real or fakes?


These are great looking capacitors and supposed to be competing against the Audience, Rel, V-Cap, and Sonicap Teflon capacitors. A couple of my tweaky friends who have no end to new capacitors gave them a try and had one quit after a month or so, and with the wire cut off, no return possible. So they cut it open, yes they are curious, and according to them, the guts looked like mylar, measured like mylar??? Could these not be Teflon caps after all??? I open this for discussion with some of the tweaky electonic minds out there to get to the bottom of this. If they are not genuine teflon, I would not want fellow audiophiles to get ripped by another false claim. But to be fair, real verifiable data should be submitted here, no guesswork. I trust my friends, but I did not do the test, so I open it to other philes. Hey, I like a great deal too, but if it is not as advertised, I get pissed too. Take a look fellow philes, and lets solve the mystery....Jallen
jallen
I have heard good things about the REL's, but have read several reviews where the V-Caps were the preferred caps. What was your break-in time for both caps, and what technique did you do to break them if you did. I have used many caps in the past and some do sound much different with 500 hours on them of pink noise, and cycling every 12 hours. Thanks, Jallen
I have tried the RTX and found them to be a bit compressed sounding, lacking space between instruments. The V-Caps were shrill out of the box, and then went dark at about 200 hours, and at somewhere between 400-500 hours, they became glorious, and all of a sudden everything in the system became suspect. My prior caps were adding a color to the system and removing a layer allowed me to find other weak links. The v-caps allowed the top end to extend like never before....sweet, extended and open. I want to try the CUTF ones, and saw the PSVANE ones, but you can read the story for yourselves. Every circuit may find a different favorite cap, but I believe break in is essential prior to serious evaluation. I have found teflon caps, wires, hookup wire, etc. take a lot of time to break in. I have tried solens and they are OK in a Xover, but not a coupling cap. I use v-Caps, teflon/tin and have trouble finding a description to how they sound. Every recording is so different, their feat is just to get out of the way of the music and let it flow. For a budget cap, I like the Theta polypropylene cap by REL, if you want a decent cap for little money. They are good, but no V-Cap. Arthur Salvatore did an extensive cap eval. and used the REL and V-caps. I have just not found much about the CUTF from V-CAP yet. They may give a mellower sound than the tinfoil ones. Jallen
A streamlined burn-in solution: (http://phonoclone.com/diy-rack.html) The last sentence applies to the film caps, that this thread addresses.
You may wish to dismiss my comments as uninformed, because I have only heard a break-in difference with metalized caps, never with film and foil. Perhaps I just gradually accommodate to the difference without consciously hearing it.

In any case, all the teflons (Vcap, Relcap, Solen) were unused, the RTX was previously used as a coupling cap in an amplifier, the polyp f&f used in power supply filters.

I agree that the RTX appears a bit less clear, but I wonder if this is an accurate perception. Comparing teflon to air, for example, shows that teflon is far from neutral. Yet it is pleasing in one or two places in the signal path, while more can be wearing.

I think that teflon is putting a slight artificial edge onto the program material. The brass bells in Solar Winds seem a bit larger than life, for example. Perhaps teflon re-introduces an edge which is lost in many recordings, or perhaps we are just engineered to be "edge detectors", and so find enhanced edges pleasing.

What do you think?
Sorry but have to disagree. Even the cheap Russian teflons make the mid and high transients very linear and never overshooting (glare) for as long as the circuit is neutral.