If it’s solid state (and not Class A) why not just leave it on, then no trigger needed? Leaving it on is typically better for longevity than turning it on and off, and it’s always warmed up and ready to go. Same for your AVR.
Man, that’s a lot. Think about that a lightbulb fails most often when you turn it on. It’s because that’s when it’s under most stress. You’ve got the initial power surge and also the constant temperature fluctuation from cold to warm, which adds stress over time. You’re really not burning much electricity at all leaving them on, so you might reconsider.
As some supporting info, I recently had my McCormack amp upgraded at SMcAudio, and they believe in leaving their amps powered on so strongly that in the upgrade they disconnect the power switch completely so it’s just a dummy light, and to turn the amp off you have to physically unplug it. I’ve had my amp for 30 years and they said by leaving it on 24/7 (unless I wasn’t using it and/or was away for an extended period), I probably extended the life of my amp for years. FWIW.
A Niles AC-3 would work:
Thanks for the suggestions but I'm not sure this is what I need. Unless I'm not understanding something, how do these power relays send an IR signal to my amp to turn it on when the 12V out of my AVR sends that signal ?
NOTE: I need to press a button on my amp or its remote to turn it on, it will not turn on just from the powering on a power socket.
Leave it on.
- It will probably last many years longer.
- It won’t save much, if any, money off your power bill.
- If you’re worried about being "green", how much energy will it take to manufacture and ship a replacement amp because you burned up your old one several years earlier than it would have if you left it on?
For the unit I mentioned, you would leave the amplifier turned on and plugged into the DigiKey piece. As show in the description, there is a trigger located on the side of it that is activated by any small AC or DC voltage up to about 30V. You would connect your trigger out wire from your receiver to that port and when your receiver turns on, it would trigger power to turn on your amplifier. Your trigger out is probably 12vdc.
Hey @ajones82, sounds like you have the same problem that I had in this thread:
Check out my solution. I use a combination of this emotive module with a IR controllable AC Socket. Somehow I can't find the IR controlled AC Socket in eBay anymore, but I found this:
It seems to do the same thing.
In my case, it works perfectly. Hope this works for you.
Hello ajones82! You can DIY one easily. Use a relay (12v - $6-8) designed for cars. An SPST one should be available at any auto parts store. Wire the coil to mini plug socket ($1). Put the swtich contacts in series with the hot lead of an AC house power cord and wire it to a standard AC outlet ($2 or so). Leave the amp's power switch ON and when the Receiver comes on, the amp will come up in short order. Put the whole thing in a plastic sandwiich box or card file box. Cardboard will do in a pinch. I've got three of these going at my house. Happy Listening!
I noticed a lot of newer equipment has the standby button problem. One of the reasons I picked a Schiit Vidar is it also has a signal detect. I was looking at integrateds and found only some like Audiolab were still "stupid" Many had trigger out, but not in as they arrogantly thought they were the center of your system.
If the amp only has the off and standby, then modifying it is your only choice. It obviously has the needed relay inside, so the trick is to control it with the 12V AVR trigger. Kills the warrantee of course and you do need to know what you are doing. Most companies won't give out their schematic so rather a pain.
If the amp has a "on" as well as a "standby" then a 12V DC coil AC mains rated relay can be used. I did that in my last house. My current amp is "stupid" so I use a E-bay USB relay board to short the pins of a Pyle sequencer that brings everything up in order.
\WARNING: Auto relays are NOT designed to withstand line voltage or current. 32V DC rating, not 110 AC! Very bad idea. Get a 12V coil relay with the correct safe ratings for line voltage. ( Mouser, Allied etc) If an E-I core transformer, you can use a SSR. Bad news if a toroid.