Best interconnect burn-in method
I think I know the answer to this, but I just wanted to double check with everyone. I am in the process of burning in an XLR interconnect. The interconnect is between the DAC and the integrated amp. I am using a laptop as the source, and it is connecting via USB cable to the DAC. Is it true that I am still burning in the XLR IC if I leave the integrated amp turned off while playing music continuously on my laptop with the DAC turned on? Thank you for your input.
I’ve tried using an arc welder to burn in a set of binding posts, just prior to a show. To try and eliminate that part of the burn in process. the answer is, don’t do it. Far too dark, is the result. Thankfully, it bounces back to a norm of sorts, but it does take a few days. Just like normal burn in. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 90% of what we mean in a face to face conversation, is lost in internet conversations. The reflection of their ego fills in what they desire, into what you have said/written. The attacks are coming out of them, based on their minds, not yours or your intent, meaning, etc. This is the fundamentals of psychology in the internet written world. They really are, most seriously, stroking themselves heavily. Ergo...There is no chance of a meeting of the minds or a middle ground. When we add in the forceful ego projections of some folks, there is even less chance they’ll learn anything --- and that they are trolling to get their jollies. Not much more can be said. Ignore them. 100 percent ignore them. The thing their projecting egos can’t deal with, is being ignored ~entirely~. Have your conversation as if they aren’t even there. Zero response: It’s the only thing that drives them away. Remember, they are most definitely baiting you to respond and they’ll say anything (all emotionally driven and barbed) to get that response from you. The only win available is to never respond. not even once. Think of a screaming child looking for attention and 'what it wants'. If you cave, the cycle never ends. |
respected_ent, Just...use your cables. If they aren't faulty, they will work fine out of the box. The fewer audiophile myths you fall for, the less money you will waste and the less paranoid you will be. |
Two conditions are required for a cable to be able to break-in:1) signal, 2) some current flow. The signal (volts following the music) are coming from the DAC, the tiny current also follows the signal and is caused by the input impedance of your amp. That impedance is there no matter if the amp is switched on. Just make sure that the input selector matches the XLR input you connect the cables to. Sometimes the input selectors disconnect the "other" inputs and the input impedance goes to "open circuit" and no current will flow. Give the break-in enough hours. Good luck and happy listening! |
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@shadorne Your statement flies in the face of Audioquest's Dielectric Bias System and an understanding that once installed in a system, cable dielectrics "form" after a period of time with signal flowing through them. AQ's DBS system sends 72 volts through the cable to keep the dielectric formed at all times after initial break-in. As the dielectric forms the cables tend to "open up" in terms of sound quality. It is actually a cool thing to experience if you have never had the occasion to do so. Lots of unexpected pleasures in this hobby. That's one of them. |
@shadorne , I’m not here to debate the concept of cable burn-in, god knows it’s been done before. But what the manufacturers do state is that newly installed cables need a settling in period. For example, cables that have been coiled and packed in a box for some time, need to be installed, let the dielectric reach room temp, and run a signal through them. |
Fortunately, there is no logical reason for burn-in with cables. So your approach will be equally effective as any other. If you experience audible differences over time (drift in performance) then it would be best to have your active gear (amp, preamp, power source, grounding etc.) checked and repaired/replaced. Generally a change over time means something is wrong (temperature issues, incompatibility between components, leaks to ground, capacitors beginning to fail etc) |
