Don’t over power condition!

Recently I bought the Aurender W20SE. Sounded incredible first day, just everything you’d expect from a 22k streamer, jaw dropping. But then I started getting dropping and smearing, sounded like CD skipping. Frustrated I lost the original bliss of the finest sound I’ve ever heard, I began having regrets of dropping the cash on the piece. I worked with the excellent Aurender customer service through their great app, they wanted to download some new software into the W20SE after sending them an audio clip of the dropping and smears that were irregular, maybe one every other song.


But do you know what the actual problem was? Over power conditioning! I had the Puritan PSM 156 hooked into the Audiowise RF Stop, and as soon as I got rid of the RF Stop and plugged it in directly into the Puritan problem solved. One of the wildest lessons I’ve learned thus far in my young HiFi journey, over power conditioning can destroy your sound.


There is something wrong with at least one of the components involved.  Even if there is such a thing as over conditioning, there should not be such a gross manifestation of a problem.  It sounds like the conditioner is not working correctly.

agree with larryi. What measurements did you take. Did you watch the line voltage at the output of your conditioning mess long term. Something’s wrong.


Example: this is unlikely the real issue, just an example of how things can go wrong. Three power conditioners are used in series to clean, clean more, adn clean even more.  Now i agree there is no such thing as "too pure" power, but what you may get is either:


1. a voltage drop on each that either takes some piece of your system out of voltage regulation.  Bad things happen then.

2. You keep increasing series (output) impedance and dont deliver the current necessary on demand.  A streamer doesn't need much, but a power amp may. And when it draws heavily (back to #1 - voltage drops, goes out of regulation).

3. If no regulator, maybe the bias falls out of class-A, since many bias circuits are voltage dividers and you get a % of the input voltage.  yea, its a bit more complicated, but the effect still exists.

or of course, just broken.

By not allowing enough power into the device, because there were 2 power conditioners before power went into the W20SE, the Puritan PSM156 then the Audiowise RF-STOP, removing the 2nd power conditioner allows the proper amount of power the device required to run, I was over power conditioning.

If a power conditioner is squeezing (throttling) the power then it demands to be removed.

Factor in the LIFEPO4 batteries in the Aurender W20SE, this setup would work fine on most streamer but is not compatible with the W20SE power system, sell it to you guys if you’re interested. Audiowise AC RF Stop. 50% off.

If there was such a thing as "overconditioning" you could stop the flow of electricity with x number of conditioners. Baffling what people will believe.

An AC powered DAC requires power free of transients and RF noise—filtering is required well into the MHz range. For DAC's with an integrated switch-mode power supply, its worth doing the modification to change it to a linear (transformer-based) design. RF•STOP™ AC Filter adds proper RF noise filtering to the input AC mains. Power supplies with upgraded fuses or improved wiring offer only a nominal level of additional RF filtering. RF•STOP AC Filter uses a two-stage design with inductors of highly permeable core material for excellent attenuation of common-mode and normal-mode noise. Wideband filtering extends from 10kHz up to the critical RF frequency of 500MHz.

For best performance, locate RF•STOP AC Filter very close to the component AC input - ideally with an option short patch cable. Use RF•STOP on amplifiers and monitor speakers to prevent capacitive/inductive coupling of RF noise and conduction along galvanic signal paths to your DAC. AC inlet connection is IEC C14; outlet connection is IEC C13.

It is easy to get carried away with power conditioning devices on the basis that more is better.

More is not always better especially if devices from different manufacturers are used.

WOW, I see so many unsupported Comments here, Questions Unanswered, and pure NONSENSE. And I am not taking any side YET on the original topic. I have a cancered view of most professional power conditioners. To start with they have the ENTIRE feed going through a tiny trace on a circuit board. My own conditioner that I MADE, doesn't use such circuit traces but actual wire.
Next, I have great surge protection but most people don't even know if the MOVs in their order unit are still viable as they can be destroyed by a surge and you will never know it.
Then I use some commercial power conditioning modules that are as good as far as the schematic goes as most useful in other high-end models.
Finally, I DO utilize a couple of external pieces the 'Nordzt Qkoil' which should counter what one person commented here "If a power conditioner is squeezing (throttling) the power then it demands to be removed."


 the ifi 'Ac ipruifier'!

My entire box is capable of 20 watts but of course, I only use a 15-amp circuit from the Wall. The only improvement I might like to have is a better quality of COPPER in my box, end to end, BUT it is no worse than the wiring in my walls so, I doubt that it causes much of a negative effect.

Good grounding Good quality sockets, having the type and number of sockets desirable for my usage is a priority, and you can never get that from a commercial box.
I realize that not every Audiophile has an Electronic Eng degree but you don't have to have one if you can look stuff up on the web and ask a few questions from people that DO KNOW. Then all you need is a little skill in constructing a box and being able to handle a screwdriver and a few other hand tools.

What if the over conditioning is causing a voltage or the amperage to drop in the system. 2 conditioners run is sequence and the device (streamer) is making a power demand that the conditioners cannot provide. Kind of like a voltage drop on a fuel pump this cause the motor to over heat and fail.

Voltage drop testing compares the battery or charging voltage to the voltage at the component. The voltage drop occurs because of resistance in the circuit that supplies the pump. The resistance could be in the connectors, grounds or harness.

A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high-amperage fuel pump circuits. With the right leads and back-probes, it’s possible to do the test (if you have access to the top of the tank) without any disassembly. The results are immediate as to whether you’ve got a good connection or a bad one.

Did you remove the Puritan from the power chain and test with just the RF-Stop to validate if there is indeed an issue with the RF-Stop to validate your claim of over over conditioning?  Seems to me it would be a simple test.

I don’t spend a lot on line conditioners ,  I have a AQ 5000 and it is excellent in my system the biggest improvement by far is the dedicated 20 amp line I have using 4 wire Dual ground ,one insulate, one isolated ground on a separate buzzbar 

and awg10 Ofc copper wire! And Every connection in my system as well as IEC,and outlets are WBT, or Furutech which btw most people have gold over Brass 

the copper has 3 x better conductivity ,which also =S 3 x less resistance or noise 

it took me the better part of the year to do this but well worth the effort.

My opinion: The Aurender unit should have adequate power conditioning built in to it to deal with any typical home AC power noise. If it needs an external power conditioner it should come with it or at least specify what is required. 

Upgrade the parts in your components power supply before trying to filter your system.  Simple AC chokes will most likely do more to improve the sound that a conditioner and a lot less costly.


Happy Listening.