I've done very well ordering many things from Aliexpress

search for 'turntable feet', lots come up. I always look for height adjustable

there is superior strength double face tape to find if not m6 studs

Never heard a Garrard 301.

I loved my similar era Thorens TD124, it’s 11.5lb platter the reason for (your words) ’drive and impact’, best Bass I ever had. If my wood floors were not so springy I would still be using it.

I see some very tempting Garrard 301 restorations with custom plinths.

Personally, I would get a plinth allowing two tonearms (add 2nd arm in future?)

and a Dust Cover, thus consider the shape of the Plinth, and it’s appearance with dust cover on. You can get new dust covers easily, any size, a rectangle easier and less costly.

Many beautiful Plinths exist, but do not plan for dust covers, i.e. this maker uses many exotic woods

Hey, I can post links today!!!

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=perfect.sounds&store_name=dasacoustic&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197

I would forget history, get it to be my main TT.

get the great TT, get a great tonearm with removable headshell and a modern MC cartridge of choice, optional cartridges on headshells waiting for their turn. It could compete with nearly anything.

My Thorens TD124: I used an SME-3009 II Tonearm with Shure’s last great MM: V15Vxmr, beryllium cantilever, micro-ridge, tracked at 1.0 g. I think a part of the ’best bass’

Tonearm: consider ease of adjusting arm height, not so much for perfect VTA, more for if planning on a few cartridge bodies that might be slightly taller or shorter .

Others exist: I have installed:

my Acos Lustre GST-801, loosen by hand short arm locking lever, turn for up/dn, tighten (easy, smooth, adjust while playing)

my Russian 12.5" arm, has micrometer for fine height adjustment, BUT you have to loosen two allen set screws (after you find the right size allen key), so: precise but not a quick change for a different cartridge. (not removable headshell anyway, I just mean: micrometer, precision, if not easy ...)

Two Micro-Seiki 505’s for a friend (just mounted two new cartridges for him this past Saturday. Loosen short locking lever by hand, move up/dn, lock by hand, easy, however not as smooth as Acos, I would not do it while playing. Quick enough, simply lift arm up, adjust by hand, arm back down.

Another feature these arms have is an adjustable fitting for the headshell to set azimuth. loosen tiny screw, rotate fitting a speck, tighten tiny screw.

Technics EPA B-500 tonearm base, wonderful: unlock by hand, turn outer ring by hand, lock by hand. Same as Micro-Seiki, not while playing: unlock by hand/lift/adjust/down, lock by hand

the up/dn lever is to raise/lower arm, the lower outer ring is arm height.

this base allows switching arm wands also, another way to have different cartridges ready to go. the S arm wand is removable headshell; straight arm wand is fixed.

OP,

Congrats on making a decision, should be a winner! The custom plinths are gorgeous.

Are you going for one or two tonearms?

Me, almost done reading the Jazz Encylopedia, more Mono LP’s are in my future!

Personally, if they didn't begin making it, I would ask the maker to increase the 2 arm plinth just enough to fit a rectangular dust cover on/around the tonearms when in their rests, leaving some wood and the 4 curved corners outside of the cover.. 'on' the plinth keeps the dust cover smaller and lighter than covering the whole plinth.

In any case, I’m sure you will love it.

IsoAcoustics GAIA III

adjustable, several size shafts including m6

I saw some nice simple round wooden feet at AliExpress. Perhaps ask them for 4 simple square or round legs, you pick diameter i.e. 60mm and thickness i.e. 40mm, forget stud, just matching wood for double face attachment.

My JVC Plinth legs provide +/- 40mm clearance (adjustable). You need clearance for the tonearm cables, more if DIN below. They make right angle DIN Connectors, Pine Tree Audio made me a special din/rca phono cable for my Mission Arm to my SUT.

btw, I never realized, with 2 arms, you need a way to select which arm goes to the phono stage. My Vintage McIntosh Preamp has two mm phono inputs, then I added a 3rd arm, I got lucky, my Fidelity Research FRT-4 has 3 front selectable inputs, one phono out to MM phono 1. Pass is a good feature if you change from MC to MM occasionally on either arm.

My friend's Luxman 444 two arm deck has it's own built in a/b box, a nice feature