Garrard 301 - Project


I have been contemplating for a while which turntable to pursue given so many choices. Every time I look around, I just can’t help drooling over a fully restored Garrard 301 or 401. Aside from being an idler-drive, I keep reading and hearing about their unique ability to reproduce music with its sense of drive and impact thus making them very desirable to own. And with available meticulous restoration services and gorgeous plinth options, what’s not to like, right!

Would you please share your experience, good and pitfalls (if any) with a restored Garrard 301 to avoid before I go down this path.

And what about the IEC inlet and power cord, would they be of any significance. My two choices would be Furutech FI-09 NCF or FI-06 (G) inlets.

I have already purchased a Reed 3P Cocobolo 10.5” with Finewire C37+Cryo tonearm/interconnect phono cable with KLEI RCA plugs option.

Still exploring Cart Options, so please feel free to share your choice of cart with Garrard 301 or 401.

And lastly, I would like to extend my gratitude to @fsonicsmith, @noromance ​​​​@mdalton for the inspiration.

128x128lalitk

Unfortunately the Gon is doing its FORUM MEMBERS an INJUSTICE by blocking Links to other Web Sites that are totally on topic to the content of  Thread.

Everybody needs a good old link to help, these are coals on the fire.

Stereophile - Budha Bearing review, a few useful tops about fitting these add-on devices as well.

I have used and will suggest Bicycle Torque Wrench as the tightening tool. The selection of the correct Nm Setting is King in such a circumstance. 4Nm is a very good start point. 

An additional Collar used on the Chassis to improve Chassis Rigidity, resulting in substantial reduction on the Chassis Flexion is invaluable.

There is no point having the tightest of tolerances for a new machined Bearing Assembly, set up in a way the Bearing Housing Base is a Pendulum through Chassis Flexion showing the worst of its presence at the Bearing Base.

A Bearing Housing Exchange Is one of a few considerations to be used in conjunction, with adding rigidity to the Chassis and Anchoring the Bearing Housing Base to reduce flexion. Some also have methods to use a Base Anchor as a Energy Drain.       

I've done very well ordering many things from Aliexpress

search for 'turntable feet', lots come up. I always look for height adjustable

there is superior strength double face tape to find if not m6 studs

@psf4972

I finally got around to checkout your beautiful system. One question on independent arm base, any challenges or advantages you could share would be appreciated.

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Appreciate your input on feets and dust cover. I am exploring my options. Lot of it will come down to what I end up selecting to rest my TT.  A solution from SRA or HRX may negate the importance of high quality feet. First order of business will be to rest TT on my core audio rack and Slim Cerabase feet (already in-house). 

I saw some nice simple round wooden feet at AliExpress. Perhaps ask them for 4 simple square or round legs, you pick diameter i.e. 60mm and thickness i.e. 40mm, forget stud, just matching wood for double face attachment.

My JVC Plinth legs provide +/- 40mm clearance (adjustable). You need clearance for the tonearm cables, more if DIN below. They make right angle DIN Connectors, Pine Tree Audio made me a special din/rca phono cable for my Mission Arm to my SUT.

btw, I never realized, with 2 arms, you need a way to select which arm goes to the phono stage. My Vintage McIntosh Preamp has two mm phono inputs, then I added a 3rd arm, I got lucky, my Fidelity Research FRT-4 has 3 front selectable inputs, one phono out to MM phono 1. Pass is a good feature if you change from MC to MM occasionally on either arm.

My friend's Luxman 444 two arm deck has it's own built in a/b box, a nice feature