New Electrical Circuit

I agree Eric Squires. I feel sometimes we just try to make things too complicated 

@skeptikal 

I am with you with respect to managing noise in the mains supply.

But I think most of the electrical noise affecting our components is generated by other components in our own audio chains.  In particular, I have a subwoofer with a class D internal amplifier which injects so much noise into the power cable feeding it, that it completely destroys digital TV reception.  The fix was ludicrously cheap - just a couple of ferrites round the power cable.  This is an extreme example, but is completely reproducible.

You did not say what country you are in!  Most of the answers assume USA, but in much of the rest of the world we use higher voltages, so much less current is drawn for the same power.  My supply is nominally 240-V RMS, though it is usually 250.  Outlets are rated for 10-Amps, with 15-Amps for bigger loads like running a caravan!

Someone mentioned phases, in the context of stages of rewiring.  In Alternating Current (AC) mains electrical supply, there are usually three phases using three wires running down a street.  Each phase is an AC sinewave rotated 120-degrees from its neighbours.  Often, each house just gets one phase.  When the lights are out in every third house, you know one phase has gone down!  

For high power devices (like my sauna and big bench sander) we have the option of using all three phases (3 wires plus earth) for three times the power.  The average power delivered through three phases is very smooth - none of the stops and starts and reverses you get with single phase AC. 

Oddly, I have never come across audiophile power supplies designed for 3-phase.

Another difference is that we use 50-Hz, not 60!

I ran a dedicated 20 amp circuit.  Leviton 8300-R 20-Amp hospital grade outlet.  ZeroSurge 8R20W power conditioner.  Preffair Audiophile HiFi shielded power cord, 10AWG, rhodium plated.  Made no difference whatsoever.  Skin effect, jitter, and drift do not make an audible difference.  Circuits that handle audio are all powered by DC, so the correctness of the AC sine wave makes little difference unless it is massively out of whack.

if you want the best outlets to use get Furutech, they're not cheap but boy do they make a difference.

would putting a 4 -6 outlet plug be better or even needed? I’m not sure if the high end outlets typically go up to 4 or 6.

One standard receptacle has two outlets. If you need 4 or 6 outlets you’ll be using, respectively, 2 or 3 receptacles. You’re using the same receptacle "unit" regardless of how many outlets.

Multiple receptacles in one box should be bussed rather than daisy-chained. Receptacles should always be wired at their screw terminals, NEVER backstabbed (although for some unfathomable reason backstabbing is still Code-compliant in the US).

Enjoy!

I’ve done several rooms over the years when we moved households. This latest was in an 1880’s Texas Gothic (Victorian) which had a full restoration in 2004. Almost the entire first floor, (with the exception of the kitchen) was original, including all woodwork, transom windows, shutters, etc. The listening room, upstairs is modern, and loft-like.

I had a couple of phases of electrical work done. First, I had a commercial electrician go over the entire electrical system starting at the meter- which the power company pulled to inspect the meter block. A feed was run to a sub panel and since I had planned to install a large iso transformer, the feed continued upstairs- all done in 4 gauge. That led to a service panel for the music room- copper buss bar--and 10 gauge dedicated lines. System sounded a little bright for a couple weeks- wired with a junction box where the iso transformer was to be located (it was built to order).

When it was installed, I cannot say it made a dramatic difference in sound, but the system was dead quiet. I use 104db efficient horns and you can hear grounding anomalies among components, and any noise on the line. Even though I am very close to downtown, the system is far quieter than it was in NY, along the Hudson, where the infrastructure was old.

Next phase was installing a whole house generator. I wanted to avoid the problem Fremer complained about- that the automatic transfer switch, which is filled with semiconductors- made his system sound terrible. I figured there was a Code compliant way to wire the system so that it was powered from the service entrance before the ATS/Generator. I called on Rex, who helped Fremer re-do his system. Rex can do this remotely with drawings over the phone for modest cost. The electrician installed an ATS with its own breaker box--and only those appliances that are wired directly to the ATS breakers are supported by the generator. The hi-fi stayed on the main service panel, thus not connected to the ATS. I probably eliminated 1/2 the breakers on the main panel, everything got checked and tightened. The system sounds better than ever. I attribute that to fewer breakers on the main panel and having everything tightened; put in a fresh grounding block (I think they are zinc) that ties main ground to other utilities like phone and cable-I have neither, but do have Google Fiber here).

I like to use commercial electricians b/c they are used to dealing with big equipment, heavier loads, etc. The grounds all tie back to the main household ground- a Ufer which is essentially rebar in the concrete foundation.

Think carefully about receptacle layout for future needs, especially if you are breaking drywall to install the power lines. It’s a little messy-- I had this done before the system was uncrated and installed. Everything got patched and painted first.

You don’t have to go to the lengths I did-- FWIW, I use the last of the Porter Ports Albert had. I did have a copper ground bar installed near the front end of the system (also tied to the household ground) in case I needed a verified "ground" for some additional equipment.

The digital side (modest) runs off the regular household wiring- there is a power conditioner on that circuit, but not on the main system or analog side. There is a surge board in the iso transformer and I bought a new whole house surge- the Siemens (yikes the price on that doubled in the last couple years), but all good.

Most electricians are not audiophiles- sometimes you’ll find a commercial electrician that has done work in stadiums or other venues. Those guys are used to the demands audiophile place on their work. Get several quotes and find an electrician that does both commercial and residential. That’s where I’ve gotten my best results.

Good luck. @Jea48, a member here, is very knowledgeable on NEC but Code can vary (more requirements than national) based on location. The National Code is a minimum standard. Overkill is not a bad thing.

With regards to the number of plugs , do I just go with the standard 2 and connect power conditioners from there to expand (for all equipment) or would putting a 4 -6 outlet plug be better or even needed? I’m not sure if the high end outlets typically go up to 4 or 6. 

Good article from MSB website: https://msbtechnology.com/faq/house-power/

This will be a significant upgrade for you. If you don’t like the price on the audiophile outlets, Hubbell 5362’s are very good. 

New Electrical Circuit

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Mike

I always say, " You don't know what noise is until you don't hear it anymore."

Wow mind blown. Thanks guys. I had to do this out of necessity but excited for the unintended upgrade. 

@fuzztone 14 is thinner than 12. I think you meant 10. 
 

FWIW I have two 20a dedicated circuits with 12awg romex. 
I like to isolate digital from analog 

@puffbojie I am an electrician, so I installed them myself. # 12 AWG RW90 wire, 20 amp Sqaure D QO breakers for my panel, and Cardas Plugs. The difference was well worth the effort. Dead quiet, larger soundstage, seemed deeper and wider, the presence felt bigger. 

12 gauge solid copper for a minimum.  14 is better but much harder to work with.

I use an Oyaide receptacle following a hospital grade one.  You need it tight. I didn't notice any sonic revelations but I do enjoy my music more.

Had to cut an existing gang box to get it in dere.

I'd run 20 Amps, which immediately requires 12 gauge wiring. 

At a bare minimum, use Commercial/Residential outlets, which now have to be Tamper Resistant (TR).  Relatively affordable ($4-5 each).

While your electricians are in there might as well also put in a whole house surge protector in the panel.

@hilroy48 The electricians have it scheduled for 15 amp circuit. So a 20 amp is the way to go? What about the size or type of wiring ?

Minimum 20 amp CCT , I run Cardas Audio 4181 receptacles. I have 2 systems with matching electrical feeds.

Cruze first audio, Maestro outlets. 

These are like a component upgrade. I'd used Porter Ports for years and figured they were ok. Maestros don't change the sound of your system. You just get more of everything. Type in "outlets" in the search bar, you'll get all you want to know about all the different brands.

Cheers