Oilman : What I outlined is essentialy an expensive phono system called a strain gauge that includes a preamp . For particulars see www.soundsmith.com ; outragious price but the most involving analog experience I have experienced. Certianly above my $$ range but not everyone. |
yeah there is a long string on this subject on this forum. both strain gauge system as well as walker are above my zone at this point. Guess i have to do with my tweaking the noll |
Oilman: The exciting element(s) for me is the learning curve ... Its the "sound" experience" that may help me find other suitable adaptions to apply to the 'Nolls. For instance:
One element that is becoming clearer is speed control ; That is one strength of the TW Acustic Raven One TT which I have been listening to. I have discovered platter speed is a weak link in the 'Noll when compaired to the '301, '401 and TW Raven.
The 'Noll motor is off-da'-shelf that needs replacement for future advancements. An AC Speed Controller is another critical part of the sonic landscape ,as is the removal of the motor from the plith. Recently, I located a potential motor replacement that far exceeds the stock 'Noll spinner.
Let me be clear ,I believe that there are limits to the mods that can be performed ... Should I want a Raven buy one not a 'Noll. Likewise, I think the distance between some 'Nolls and other tables can be shortened. How far who knows.
One matter I am certian, the spring/suspended 'Nolls have finite limilts that the unsuspended 'Nolls do not. More to come. |
Oilman: I have uncovered another area that needs investigation -- The Bearing Platter . The Maplenoll Manual states " The air Bearing Platter is the heart of the turntable . It is incredibily simple consisting of only two parts ... ". Actually , that statement is partially accurate. The platter bearing consists of three parts : top , bottom and center pin. The center pin is the weak-link in the system. The center pin's were poorly manufactured , wearout in time and most that I have viewed have "side-swing" , the platter moves ever so slightly off-center . Lloyd Walker in his 6 moons interview had a veiled comment to the problem as a fatal flaw equally as important as the failure of the air-control systems for the entire 'Noll line-up. My interm solution was to re-manufacture the center pin to more exacting standards and have a couple dozen on hand so I can put a fresh pin in the bottom bearing plate whenever one starts to wear (yearly). I'm rethinking the whole matter trying to come up with a center pin that would be more akin to the improvements made to a '301 or '401 with a replacement brass bearing . Not the same just extracting the "essence" of improvement and extrapolating that into a 'Noll . A fuzzy - head thing buts that what I do best -- sometimes. |
I posted a thread on the audioasylum and got a similar theme in that it was focused on improving the air bearing platter and tonearm. here are his comments. He has a signature model versus the standard model I have
Next thing to do is buy some real high quality air regulators to replace
the cheap ass screw valve which comes stock. I've tried various brands,
but have found that the Binks brand are more stable than most of the
others. I have 2, one for the platter pressure and another for the platter
pressure. I have the air pressure regulators and their gauges set into a
panel on the front of my TT stand, so that it is easy to see, and easy to
adjust. You'll need one that is low pressure for the arm, which runs
around 3 PSI. The other one will depend upon which arm manifold that you
have, either 20 to 25 PSI or 40 PSI. I have the higher pressure arm
manifold (Signature version #2) so I went with the highest quality Binks
model specifically designed for 20 to 50 PSI. The regulators were around
$75 each. Gauges were around $30 each, again Binks models.
If you haven't noticed, air quality and regulation is VERY important. Keep
this in mind.
I made a custom Purple Heart plinth for mine, that is 6 inches thick, which
really opened up the table ... much better than the original plinth. This
wasn't cheap. I gave my cabinet maker friend my plinth for a month to make
it all align perfectly. (You have to be sure that they realize just how
important 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch is in this case. (Although I
always wondered just how acurate the factory was ...)
As far as the arm is concerned, there is plenty that should be done. I had
a machine shop place a .002 spiral groove throughout the arm to improve
stability. Stock, there is just the air fitting and nothing else. Oh, be
sure that they have the arm tube and that the champhere the rough edges, of
course.
Replace the stock arm tube with Thompson Shafting. Any good machinist will
be familiar with Thompson Shafting. It has .001 run out in a 20 foot
length. It will not bend or distort like the stock hollow shaft does.
(This is why many Maplenoll arms will bind, and/or have tracking issues
half way through a record).
My stock arm tube was filled with a polymer type sound deadening material,
sourced from an old friend who works for NASA. It came in a plain brown
wrapper, so I'm sorry that I can't be of more help. I also wrapped the arm
tube with black duct tape, which really tightened up the focus and deepened
the stage.
I had a carbon fiber arm tube made for me by a friend who has an archery
store. (They use carbon fiber arrow shafts at $100 to $200 EACH!) Anyway,
he made me a carbon fiber arm tube from a broken arrow shaft that is really
interesting. Once again, it is duct tape wrapped for improved staging and
focus.
It's funny that Lloyd recommended using "Super Glue" on the arm/VTA adust
connection. I hope that he at least recommended the good stuff that
actually works that is horribly expensive. I used a very small amount of
JB Weld in that area. JB Weld is amazing stuff, and it is much, much
stronger than Cyanoacrylate.
The stock platter bearing needs to be "trued" by a competant machinist. Get
both plates trued. It cost me somewhere around $30 (in 1990's money) to
have them trued by a machinist friend. If you really want to get tweak,
have another platter bearing made with more surface area.
I am taking a little break from my tweaks but I have some interesting ideas to follow up on. Thanks again for all the thoughts. |
Oilman:
My reaction to the Air Bearing advice presented to you is to recall a conversation with Lloyd Walker on several of the same issues. Mr. Walker warned me that those bearing plates have been hardened and are subject to distortion or shattering should they be put on a lathe and turned. As for manufacture to a slightly larger size, the estimates I got were beyond my means. They exceeded the cost of the entire table.
A reader of the postings emailed me to express his tale of woe . According to him he purchased a Maplenoll on Audiogon only to have it delivered damaged . Besides cosmetic issues, the top plate spindel was bent so he attempted to have it repaired. The machinist heated the plate not knowing it had previously been hardened and the top plate went out of true and can not be repaired. Now he's stuck with an unplayable table.
Some of the Tonearm suggestions are interesting. I have a feeling that your friend has mistaken the alignment problems I spoke of in other posting in this thread as manufacturing problems. Nevertheless, his comments are worthly of follow-up.
Lastly, I have received some experimental compounds via a manufacturer that are claimed to deadened vibration(s) on contact. I haven't cracked the cans but intend to "play" with the stuff. |
Crem
Thanks, I truely value yours and piedpipers comments. Everyone of the ideas you and him suggested that I tried has worked like a champ. I continue to ask a lot of questions about the maplenoll tables to learn what people have done and how it has worked out. I especially like the mod piedpiper made which moved his motor from the noll plinth. I am also very interested in developing a carbon fiber arm but I am still struggling learning how to solder the fine wire necessary to make these arms work well(just not good with real steady hands). I do have the prototype arm with a graphite headshell. I am working on a type of clamp and VTA adjustment similar to the walker table that will eliminate the looseness in the arm. Thanks again for the advice and ideas |
Oilman : For soldering , take a piece of 400 wet sand paper gently brush off the laquer on the ends of your wire. Check wire for continuity. Use a Radio Shack soldering holder (maybe available online) make a tight mechanical connection touch the phono plug with a 30 watt iron , touch the iron with the thinest silver solder --There you have it. I have had great sucess with the new battery operated solder devices but take care the carbon-type tips crack and keep a hand full of replacement batteries nearby. |
Oilman: A suggestion . Eminent Technology is currently selling a carbon fiber wand for the ET 2.5 Tone-Arm for $400. Perhaps , Bruce Thigman would consider making a modification of his tone-arm to fit the maplenoll ? Bruce's knowledge-base is significant regarding the Maplenoll Tone-Arms. His email is brucet@eminent-tech.com Should he respond in the positive , I too would be interested. He also has developed tone-arm wire second to none for airbearing arms. |
Oilman :
I spoke to Mr. Thigman who declined for business/cost reasons to participate ;however, he is forwarding some arm wands that may or may not fit w/o modification.
Mr. Thigman did advise that I his knowledge base is confined to his air bearing arm and that dispite claims on the internet , he actually had no personal involvement in the development of the Noll lineup. |
please let me know about the wands. I have a couple of graphite tubes that I had made so I would love to compare to his design. Once i get the VTA clamp built, I will send you one to see if you like it. It will be similar to the one used on the walker table that will allow the arm tube to extend past the spindle thus allowing for a ridgid clamp between the armwand and the air bearing spindle. this also eliminates tedious adjustment for overhang on the cartridge. I am still looking at how to design the dampening trough so it does not have to hang over the record. Again will be something similar to the more current type designs. |
Oilman: Anything that is forwarded by ET that can be considered an improvement shall be openly shaired. |
I have never found the oil trough position to be a problem but I am the opposite of all thumbs. However, Lloyd insists, despite Pierre's and Bob Dilger's insistence to the contrary, that the trough sounds better behind the arm rather than at the cartridge end; thus Lloyd's positioning on his Proscenium.
BTW, super glue is particularly usefull because of it's capillary action insinuating itself into the otherwise inaccessable wee spaces within the arm joints. Strength per se is not the issue. Firming an already strong but possibly resonant joint is.
Dampening the arm is not necessarilly a good idea. Over dampening and killing dynamics and liveliness is a clear and present danger. |
Agree with the comment about overdampening. I found that out as I struggled to find the right viscosity oil for the trough. Too low viscosity was like no dampening but when i went to a more viscous oil the highs disappeared. I off set by adding more vta but when I moved, i tried a lighter viscosity and found a good balance. I like the design of the walker for two reasons, I tend to slosh the oil onto the record (specially when I have one too many johnny blues!) and the tapered end along with the adjustable oil level would make fine tuning dampening easier. Not sure of the impact of the end of the arm versus the cartridge end however. So far, I just have a few ideas to try. |
I have found that one can change the sound using the oil trough by slightly lowering the oil fill line and replacing the oil paddle with a pointed screw . The pointed screw glides thru the oil bath with less effort; the highs seem to improve. I replaced the oil-bath with Amsoil synthetic 5w-30 in the trough. |
Note: A pointed fine threaded bolt (minus the head) works equally as well. A short piece of tubing slid over/down the top of the bolt can replace the locking nut. The sum total weights less than the factory locking nut/paddle that may or may not be an advantage regarding compliance factors with certian cartridges. |
2nd Note: A quick-fix to finding a pointed fine threaded bolt : Go to Home Depot , find a metal toggle bolt package , many contain pointed fine threaded bolts as part of the toggle bolt assembly. Buy a toggle bolt package ,remove the pointed fine threaded bolt that holds the toggle bolt assembly together , cut and burnish the pointed bolt to size as a replacement for the 'Noll paddle. |
Oilman: I received 2 arm wands from ET. One appears to be a "prototype" silver in color the other a more typical looking arm wand ; they are 6" in length. More to say about them later when I have had some time with friends to explore there potental. Sorry, neither is carbon-fiber. |
I am getting prepared to try the carbon wand on the maplenoll. I have recieved a z lift and clamp system that will allow for easier and more accurate VTA adjustment. The headshell is coming but have not recieved yet. Once completed, the wand will be a carbon fiber that will be clamped at the airbearing spindle that can easily be adjusted for hangover. The clamp will be installed via the two screws that hold the current vta adjustment bracket. THe clamp will provide a rigid connection between the armwand and the airbearing spindle. As for the zlift, I will mount the airbearing spindle housing on it. It has rack/pinion drive that can be adjusted and locked to provide a stable foundation for the airbearing arm. The rack/pinion can make very fine adjustments and with the scale, should be able to set for various record thickness making optimization a little easier. I do not know if i can do on the fly adjustments but in theory should be able to. I have a very fine thread system as part of the rack to allow for very subtle adjustments. I should have installed before end of October, so I will keep you informed. At this point, i will use a hollow tube versus packing. Not sure yet if that will create resonance issues. My tonearm wires will be silver thread from Phoenix wire. Its teflon coated and very limp. THanks for the tip on soldering. Scraping the teflon off made the difference. Once i get it tuned, (assuming its not a dog!), i will send pics. |
"that can easily be adjusted for hangover."
I can recommend an easy adjustment for increased "hangover" but the decrease of same is not so easy. But then maybe you meant "overhang." ;-)
Seriously though, you may find that suspending the airbearing manifold on the z-lift is a sonic compromise. Bob Dilger made a few mega tables with separate plinths for platter, arm and motor and was surprised at the improvement. If you could make an arrangement where the manifold was mounted on its own massive plinth which was then mounted on the z-lift I think you'd find an improvement but you'd probably have to make a new platter pinth as well to accomodate the logistics. |
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/1223976996043163733nokXJH
I'm quite a bit late in this thread, but I've been watching
it for a few months now. I have some stuff which might be of interest.
Here is a Sig Ariadne that I did some revision on. Extra holes in the air bearing and some cleanup of the casting helped. A rework of the air distribution and inline regulator and filters as well as a gauge and an air switch.
Yes, I feel the original air bearing linear arm is a relatively poor design and I needed a piece in the air bearing whcih I could not reproduce. So out went the air
linear arm and in went a unipivot (I'm sure a few purists will be gesticuluating and sobbing, but it really made it
a better table). I may consider going to a modern air bearing arm at some point, but I'm currently happy with the results.
The pics are a few years old, many changes in TT stand etc. have been made. The dehydrator and air regulators and dryers have been retained, but I decided to run the
air from a standing compressor in my garage. Probably the best decision I've made yet with this table. Also now changed is the foot arrangement which now have large knurled spiked pods but retain the original threads into the table, and the left side leveling knob.
With the addition of addional air holes in the platter air bearing, it is easily floated with about 4 psi and not too much air volume. I machined up some extra center pins for the air bearing out of Delrin- if the table isn't exactly level the original will wear out suprisingly quickly.
By the way, replacement Hurst motors are available from Hurst online for about $50.
RFG |
yeah, Probably will need a hangover remedy! You might be right about the freeplay but the design i am looking at has the ability to lock the lift against the rack and support system. That is the beauty of this effort, it can be changed back if it does not work! |
Gf gumby:
Good to have you on board. Admired your work from afar.
Do you have any pic's of your work on the lower plate of the air bearing ? Please be a tad more detailed re: "clean up of the casting helped ". Thanks |
My bearing castings were a little rough. Corroded too. I was hesitant to
clean up much of the "rough cast" in the middles of the top
and bottom halves of the air bearing, as I read a looong time ago (Lumley?) that that very roughness helped by making the air more turbulent. As that memory is vague at best (I wasn't even doing analog at the time) I opted to not mess with that rough cast, thinking I could always clean it up more later. Turns out it works pretty well.
However, the wide surfaces that make contact when there is no air pressure can be cleaned up with good results. I used jewelers rouge on the flat surfaces and spun the top plate relative to the bottom plate to effectively polish those surfaces. Grit from fine sandpaper would work as well, but it's important to not sand them, you need to use the powder/grit/rouge between the plates to insure they stay consistently flush relative to each other. That seemed to allow it to float with less pressure, however it requires the table to be level
to do so efficiently and effectively. It will obviously still run at higher pressure as before, but it's not as critical to have the higher pressure to float the platter.
I also drilled and tapped two more holes in the base at 120 degrees apart the same distance as the original air inlet from the center to spread out the incoming air more evenly. That requires a little more drilling/relieving from the underside of the chassis to run the split hoses to from underneath. Make sure to re-level the bearing relative to the table upon re-assembly. Check to make sure the rubber washers between the bottom plate and the table are in good condition while you're putting it back together- you'll need them supple to take up the difference when you level the bottom bearing plate. Although a bit rough and crude, the original design wasn't too bad, but can be improved upon in these ways.
If this is "clear as mud" you can email me outside the forum.
I haven't contributed much during this thread as it has been concentrating mostly on fighting the original air arm
which I don't use for some of those same reasons. I do think the 'nolls are a neat platform that can be used as a
quite capable table, for pennies on the dollar compared to cost no object tables.
RFG |
Once i moved up to a high pressure for the arm (45psig), I have not had any problem with the airbearing spindle. I have looked at your pics before and wondered why you replaced the air bearing arm. Thanks for the info. I do feel the arm is a weak link but i like the linear aspects of this arm and love the way it tracks. I have looked at ways to improve the vta adjustment and stiffness of the arm hence the tweak I am looking at. I agree the platform is excellent though a little crude compared to the beautiful tables being produced presently. But the sound stage IMO can not be found in any table in the price range you can get a used maplenoll (assuming you can find one). |
however it was the main air bearing sleeve which was missing when I got the table. Some nice man in Europe has the rest of the parts from the arm so at least it helped someone with their 'noll. I alos love linear air arms, but it just wasn't meant to be in this instance. I've considered an ET-2 or either of the beautiful more modern arms like the Kuzma, Walker, etc., I just haven't felt
the need to add yet more levels of complexity, etc. as
I've been fighting head amps and carts. Anyone else have
a radical tonal shift in their room/system when they change from analog to CD?
C'mon, you know that last statement made you smile... |
Update on my Maplenoll tweaks. I have completed my tonearm construction and began the wiring for the arm. The arm is a yamamoto headshell attached to a carbon fiber tube(0.5"OD). The wiring is teflon coated silver wire(0.003") and will run from the headshell to the Phono stage. The arm is clamped to the air bearing spindle and is easily adjustable to set overhang. I have included a pic of the new tonearm on my system pics. Next step is to install/align the z-lift to provide an easy adjustment for VTA. This arrangement will improve the stiffness of the linear arm while providing an easier way to adjust vta. once complete, i will include the pics of the table mods on my system description. |
Oilman: Quite exciting. Very professional job. Looking forward to your comments on performace , ect. in the near future. |
Update on my tweaks to my Maplenoll. I have installed the zlift, graphite armtube and new headshell. I have decided to go up a couple of sizes with the silver wire because of difficulty with the O.OO3 wire. I will use 0.008 which is still much lighter than the existing wire used on the stock maplenoll arm. My fingers are just not nimble enough!:) I am currently using the wire from the old arm so I have gotten a chance to test fire the setup. The arm is much lighter so I had to remove one of the counterweights to get the system balanced. Now the exciting thing is with the zlift, I can do on the fly VTA adjustment which has allowed me to fine tune my vta while actually listening to a record. The movement of the adjustment is very smooth so there is no skipping or bouncing of the stylus while adjusting the height. The Zlift is a very ridgid and no free play at all. The lift is securely fastened to the plinth and the air bearing spindle is attached to the lift. The results are impressive. When you can hear changes while making the move, its much easier to find the sweet spot. The results with the carbon fiber arm and optimized vta are a stronger/solid bass response, wider soundstage and more clarity. WHat I mean by better clarity is that some albums I had some distortion or muddled sounds particurily with female vocals (stevie nicks on Rumours album as an example). That distortion is gone.
All in all, I think the modifications have improved the table in particular the stiffness of the arm assembly and the ability to easily adjust VTA.
I still have to install my damping trough and I am going to go directly from the arm wiring to my phono stage to see what improvement less cables will provide. I have included 1 pic on my system profile and will try to get some better pics up soon |
Congratulations! sounds very cool. I'd love to see a good picture of the Z lift arrangement.
.008 is quite thick and may have adverse effects on tone arm movement. The wire I use is much thinner than even .003. It is a pain to work with but worth it. |
Oilman: Kudo's to you . The tonearm does appear impressive and most certianly is a significant improvement over the stock model. Unfortunately, I'm a little fuzzy on the mechanics based on the pic's. I would appreciate a few more pics and close-ups whenever you have the time. Congratulations on your accomplishment. |
My digital camera is on the fritz so I took the pics with my camera phone. I will get some hi quality pics on my system soon and for those interested, will send close up pics and material lists to assist if you want to perform a similar tweak. I am still trying to handle the small diameter wire based on Piedpipers comments. The arm assembly is more stable with the clamp arrangement and I think that is part of the increased bass response and depth to the soundstage. I also think the high purity silver wire will also improve the sound but still working on that one. |
Oilman: How is the Tonearm ? |
The arm is working out fantastic. My digital camera is due back tommorrow so i will change out the pics on my system to show some details on the arm and zlift. The whole arm assembly i feel will compete with any arm combination out there for stiffness, ease of adjustment and sonics. I must admit piedpiper was right about the wiring inthat the 0.008 is just too stiff so I will try once again with the superfine wire. With the stock wire, the movement is ok but the sonics with the silver wire i think are better particularly with resolution of the high frequencies. I have always been impressed with the maplenoll when it came to bass response(very solid compared to my michell gyro) but the carbon fiber arm with the clamp system i am using has been a noticable improvement. The post clamp that connects the carbon fiber wand to the air bearing spindle is so much stiffer than you can get with the stock maplenoll arm even with superglueing the connections. I might be off, but i think that is probably the big improvement in the bass response as well as lower distortion on some albums. The zlift also is so sweet because it has allowed me to determine for each type of record, very precise settings to ensure vta is optimized. It has a scale that I can quickly move to as I change records of varying thickness. I still have not hooked up the dampening trough so i do not know if that will improve the sound but from my previous experience with the maplenoll stock arm, the bass became a lot more solid. I will report back once i get it installed. Since i have installed the new arm assembly, i am finding the optimum vta is lower than the stock arm while using the dampening trough (ie the tail of the cartridge is lower now). I am still experimenting with vta and vtf but so far, i think the tweak has been a tremendous improvement. Again the biggest improvement is an even more solid bass response, lower distortion on some of my "difficult albums" and a little wider and deeper soundstage. I also have leveled and balanced the lead platter and recoating with acrylic paint. I have noticed the wobble on the platter to improve but I think the teflon bushing has a little free play thus allowing a little wobble. It is not impacting the sound as best as I can tell but I will look to change the bushing once i find out i suitable replacement. I do have some of the stock carbon fiber tube left (enough to make at least two more arms) if you are interesting in it. Again, if you want i can send the material list for the clamp, and zlift also. I found the total cost of the upgrade including the silver wire was less than 200 dollars. |
crem1--added some better pics of the arm and zlift before i tore apart to rewire with the small diameter silver wire. look under my system for new pics. |
Oilman,
Looks very interesting. You may want to experiment with the angle of your counterweight. Lloyd recommends either down or even depending on the weight of the cartridge but never up. |
I usually have it level but adjusted to get a better view of the zlift arrangement. THe reason up is not good is that a small move in arm height dramatically changes the force on the record. You were right on about the diameter of the wire. Ugh, 50 bucks down the drain! I am back at trying to handle the smaller diameter wire. thanks as always for your tips |
I finished the wiring on the arm using the lighter weight, silver wire. At the point, I am going to take a break from tweaking and just listen a while. The silver wire has resulted in a brighter high frequency and more resolution of the highs. Cymbals, glass bells, etc have far greater clarity, also I have found i need less volume from my system to get the same sound levels (using a sound meter). Not sure if this was just from the silver wire compared to the stock copper wire, or the fact I am going right from the tonearm to the stepup. (less length of cable and few connections). I still need to hook up the dampening trough but pretty impressed with the new setup |
Oilmanmojo: Just a tad too busy with non-audio stuff. Great pic's and information. |
Crem1
Thanks for the kudos and speedy recovery. You will be in our prayers. I will have some pics of the oil dampening system in this new configuration soon. Still experimenting with different viscosity of oil and tapered pins to optimize the dampening. I found out pretty quickly, too much dampening is not a good thing. You lose the delicate details pretty easy. |
Threaders: Just a mention ... HarborFreight.com is advertizing a Air Filter / Regulator # 1118 for $20 in store , $27 online. I use one with my Maplenoll and feel it has contributed to my satisfaction with the Air Control System. You can go to the web site and examine the detailed instructions. Don't purchase unless you feel it shall improve your current set-up. Just remember the all the pipe threads must be sealed to be really impressive. Any air leaks totally delay the results until sealed. |
I have finished the oil dampening system modifications for the new arm designed. In the spirit of using the existing equipment, i mounted the swing out dampening trough under the airbearing spindle. I then mounted a tapered pin on the armwand clamp and it protrudes into the trough. I have filled the trough with a highly viscous oil (heavier than motor oil) that my lubes plant produces. The degree of dampening is set by the depth of the fluid in the trough. I can adjust this by a displacer which goes into the trough. I will get some pics of the finished design.
As far as performance, the dampening system works well in that i can adjust the level of dampening very easily and while the record is playing. I found that too much dampening will mute the delicate highs but since it is easy to adjust, i can fine tune it easily. I usually have just the tip of the pin in the fluid unless i have a wavy record or have a record that is difficult to track due to intensity. The design is very similar to the oil dampening system on the walker table but alas it is not nearly as refined.
I now feel i have a table that can deliver everything that is in the grooves. I recently upgraded the cartridge to the universe and feel the system can handle this great cartridge. I am still fine tuning the vtf and vta but I have been tremedously please with the results of the table, arm and now top flight cartridge. I still need to upgrade my phono stage (maybe santa will be good to me:~) I have found myself listening to records finding details that just were not there a few months ago. Some of the delicate bells on Ricky Lee Jones debut album, the presence and sound stage listening to Karajan (1812 overture), the absolute silence required in the system before the flutes start playing the intro into Bolero(never could understand why the record was so hard to listen to until I got this system optimized, and I could go on about the quality of the sound. I truly think the stiffness of the carbon fiber arm clamped to the air bearing spindle was one of the keys to getting the system performance up. Also, the upgrade to silver tonearm wires made a tremedous difference. The vta adjustment is nice, but i do not think it had as significant impact as the stiffness of the armwand system. I also really like the dampening system since it now longer swings above the record. That is a small issue but now i do not have to worry about it as i am changing LPs.
Thanks for all of the input and ideas from various members of the forum especially Crem1 and Piedpiper (2 other maplenuts!). I have really enjoyed listening to how others have improved this line of table. |
you've inspired me to rethink my arm as well. I'm thinking of reversing the direction of the arm and make it very short ala the rare Maplenoll Apollo but mounting it on a separate plinth with a VTA adjustment dial on the back end in the form of the third cone support. the only vulnerability of this design is that warped records change VTA because of the short arm but rigidity is greatly enhanced. I'll draw a picture and post a picture. |
This sounds similar to the tritium table arm. It is an air bearing arm that is very short to resemble the actual cutting head. Love to see your concept. I still want to build the separate motor plinth similar to your table but i do not have the tools necessary to craft the device. By the way, you were right about the thinner wire. I finally got a good connection and it is working better than the 0.008 wire. |
Oilmanmojo: How is the arm & oil paddel combo now working ? |
Crem1; the table sounds great. i recently purchased the universe cartridge and think I am close to optimizing the vta and vtf. The cartridge had about 100 hours on it so its probably not fully broken in but the cartridge, arm, table combination is fantastic and far superior to anything i have ever heard on my system. I still need to upgrade my phono stage but the resolution of this combination is pretty impressive. I am currently running the vta with cartridge body close to level and the vtf near 1.7 grams. I am using the technique DougDeacon highlighted recently with the universe and the last couple of tweaks have opened up the resolution dramatically. The dampening system is finished and I think it is a resounding success. I will post a pic tommorrow on my system pics showing the dampening system. So much easier than the stock dampening system since I do not have to swing it over the record anymore. I am using a heavyweight oil with a tapered pin instead of the paddle. I think you will like the mods. I also mounted the armlift on the righthand side of the air bearing spindle. Currently I am just chilling out listening to music and waiting for the universe to fully break in. Not sure though the sound can get any better. I am working on a 2000 record deal so it looks like i will be cleaing a few records instead of tweaking with the table. Have you had a chance to build the carbon fiber arm? You will not regret it. By the way, thanks for the bullet plugs. Much better than the radioshack plugs I was using. I may need to call you up to discuss steam cleaning. I really have enjoyed that thread and ready to take the plunge with the steam |
Oilman: Sorry for the late response. Lots to mention but due to the medical detour no changes yet on the 'Noll front. As timing would have it, I also aquired a LP collection ( 1960's rock LPs) - So far I have 200, several hundred supposely on the way ; many UK and German pressings @ 1967, significant J. Hendricks ,those are all mint - US pressings. Lots of gatefolds and alternate covers. But No Beatles. Oil, call anytime for a chat on steaming or anything I can assist you with.
Today, I'm attending a "East Coast Audiophile Society " gathering. Many audio designers and friends are coming several fresh from the CES. Frank Schroder, the tonearm designer, is scheduled to be in the group as is Peter of Soundsmith and Pierre Spray of 'ol Maplenoll fame along with others.
Should the moment present itself , I'll smooze over your arm which appears to me to be a impressive step forward.
Chat Soon, Charlie |
I have added two recent pics on my system pics showing the trial oil dampening system. The oil trough is the stock trough that I mounted directly under the air bearing spindle. I attached a pin to the arm clamp and it protrudes down into the oil trough. I am using a fixed level at this time in lieu of an adjustable level in the oil trough. The oil is a heavy weigh lubricating oil with a high viscosity. I have experimented with various levels and viscosities to optimize the dampening for most circumstances. The final touch will be an adjustable level to compliment the tapered pin thus creating the ability to adjust dampening on the fly.
The results are subtle. I did find the stock paddle was too much dampening and tended to kill out the highs (particularly the delicate highs like crystal bells etc.) The dampening tends to help with running a little lower vtf. Following the thread on the universe cartridge, i currently have the cartridge vtf set at 1.68 grams and it is sounding great. VTA is near level with the tail just slightly up on the cartridge. Thanks again for the inspiration from various contributors to this forum. |
Olimanmojo : Impressive and innovating ; you win the "brass ring" . Great work |
charlie
thanks for the kind words. its guys like you who help the novices like me get the encouragement to try new things. |
