ONKYO TX-NR905
Thanks everyone for all the great advice! My 905 starting to sound much better and much improvement. So far, the 905 sounds spectacular on movies! The 5 channel sound separation was very close to realistic in the real world. Movements from speaker to speaker is very realistic. Onkyo products is a lot better than I thought. I had the Sunfire Ultimate Receciver II and it cost $2500 more than the 905 and the Sunfire didn't sound anywhere close to the 905 when it comes to movies. I have not yet focus on the music side of the 905 and I am now starting to setup the 905 for SACD, DVD-Audio and 2-Channel CD listening tests. Everybody ready to help me hook up my universal player?! I have a Pioneer Elite DV-79AVi player and need help on setting it up so it will play SACD Multichannel, DVD-A Multichannel and regular 2-Channel CD playback. I wanted to set this universal player to the best performance as possible through the 905. I hoping it will not be too complex to hook it up. Anyone got a first advice for the Universal player? So far, It looks like I just need 5 composite cable sets for SACD and DVD-A multichannel music BUT what about playing regular CD? Do I need to get another 2 composite set and hook it up to the CD connection on the back of the 905? Or just hooking up with the 5 composite cable sets is enough to play SACD, DVD-A and CD? |
Now I will have to buy 2 more surround speakers for a 7.1 setup so I can listen to DTS-ES. Rather than buy two more speaker, why not put that money into a blu-ray player so that you can listen to DTS-Master HD audio, which you can listen to in 5.1. As to the sub crossover, you can cross it over where ever you like. It doesn't have to be a THX cerified sub to cross over at 80hz. Just experiment and see where it sounds the best and best integrates with your other speakers. |
I was just tweaking the auto MIC and got some odd numbers again for all 8 seats. Below are the results from the auto calibration: LEFT FRONT SPEAKER: +1db CENTER SPEAKER: -1db RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER: +2db LEFT SURROUND: -2db RIGHT SURROUND: -3db SUBWOOFER: -3db Nothing really matches with the results. When I listened to movies and music, I noticed I had to turn UP the volume quite a bit in order to hear sounds coming from all speakers. So, I went back to the setup menu and adjust all the sound level calibration and here are the NEW adjustment I have made: LEFT FRONT SPEAKER: +5db CENTER SPEAKER: +5db RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER: +5db LEFT SURROUND: +4db RIGHT SURROUND: +4db SUBWOOFER: +4db Once I boosted those levels up higher, I did not had to keep on turning the volume up way high so I can hear sounds. Everything made a huge difference. The mid bass and the subwoofer bass was powerful and blended together quite nicely. Here is a question for you, what if I adjust all the sound level calibration all the way up, how would that effect the sounds for music and movies? Maybe I will try that tonight but for sure, I will not have to turn up the volume very much to get louder sounds from my speakers. Also, because my speakers are 4ohm, I wonder that is the reason why I need to crank up the sound level calibration and crank up the volume to get reference sound. My other question I have is the Subwoofer, do I set it to 120Hz (LPF of LFE)? I have set all my 5 satellite speakers to 80Hz (THX) but my subwoofer is not THX certified. My subwoofer is the Definitive Technology Supercube Reference if that helps. You can take a look at the specs at: http://www.definitivetech.com/documents/manuals/SuperCube%20Reference/SuperCubes_Manual_12909_read.pdf |
Ideally, full range speakers run from 20 HZ to 20,000 HZ. +/- 3dbs. Most full range speakers are lucky if they go down to 40 HZ. So I would look for something in that range. 40 HZ 20K HZ. More expensive speakers and usually big one will go full range. You are right about the stands part. I did not notice that... |
Joeyboynj - below are the specs for my L/R front speakers: Type: Sealed-box, 3-way Sealed-box Drivers: (2) 5-3/4" polypropylene woofer (2) 3" composite cone midrange (1) 1" cloth dome tweeter Frequency: 80Hz 20kHz Response: (3dB) Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm Sensitivity: 90dB Recommended Amplifier Power: 50 150W Size: (W x H x D) 7.6 x 23.0 x 11.7in Weight: (each) 26.75lbs Magnetic Shielding: Yes |
Joeyboynj - All their speakers sits on speaker stands. My L/R are the same. They sits on stands which stands about 49 inches tall and they do look like floor standing speakers. I don't consider speakers which sits on stands are full range floor standing speakers. They still consider satellite speaker to me. Again, I am not sure what is consider a full range floor speaker? Did you look at my specs for my L/R speakers? |
Atlantic Technology does make floor standing speakers. http://www.atlantictechnology.com Look under products for System 8200e THX Ultra 2 system |
I am sure what are the specs for a full range speaker but below are the specs for my front speaker: Type: Sealed-box, 3-way Sealed-box Drivers: (2) 5-3/4" polypropylene woofer (2) 3" composite cone midrange (1) 1" cloth dome tweeter Frequency: 80Hz 20kHz Response: (3dB) Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm Sensitivity: 90dB Recommended Amplifier Power: 50 150W Size: (W x H x D) 7.6 x 23.0 x 11.7in Weight: (each) 26.75lbs Magnetic Shielding: Yes When I listen in Pure Audio and Direct, my front L/R speakers do sounds pretty good in the bass section. I know it will not pump out massive bass from a powered subwoofer but than again, neither can a floor standing speakers. |
Dlcockrum - You are correct, nothing is perfect. Back than, I thought Onkyo products sucks! Now, they have improved the sound quality quite much and the styling design is probably the best I have seen on the Market. My complaints for the 905 are minor but so far, I really enjoy listening to it. Harman Kardon makes nice looking receivers as well especially their new Flagship receiver is coming out this year I believe. Ericjcabrera - Thanks for the good the advice. The problem is that Atlantic Technology do not make floor standing speakers. HA HA HA I am screwed!!! However, I can buy another Twin Polar surround speakers to match my surround speakers. MORE COMPLAINTS AGAIN WITH ATLANTIC TECHNOLOGY!!!! Why don't Atlantic Technology make floor standing speakers? Their THX Certified speakers sounds excellent! I previously owned the Energy Veritas V2.4i systems and it did sound anything close as good as the Atlantic Technology and costing a lot more than the Atlantic. Higher price speakers does not actually sound better in my experience anyway. |
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I looked at the back of my front L/R speakers and can not do a bi-amp. So, BTL is not an option. Regarding separates, I bought some separates last year and the hum or buzz sounds coming out of my speakers was quite annoying. I had people told me to buy a cheater plug to take out the hum sounds but that did not work. I tried numerous methods to get rid of the hum sound but nothing worked. I spent more time trying to get rid of the hum sounds than enjoying my new separates. I tried brands like Parasound, ADCOM and Classe. They made the hum sounds from my speakers. I now switched back to receivers because it's dead quiet and not more hassle of trying to get rid of the hum or buzz sounds. Separates also takes up my audio rack space. |
Do not set the AVR to Bi-amp unless you have Bi-wire capable speakers and use 2 sets of speaker cables per speaker - one for tweeters and one for woofer - AND no jumpers between the bi-wire speaker terminals. Otherwise, you will damage the AVR and possibly your speakers. My advice is to ignore this option. Also, if I remember correctly, the Bi-amp option uses the power sections of the two rears in the 7.1 setup, so you are limited to 5.1 if you use Bi-amp to your front speakers. It sounds like you plan to do 7.1, so this is yet another reason to ignore the Bi-amp option. The Onkyo AVR's have excellent power supplies and should drive your 4 ohm load speakers with no problem, so just leave the BTL/Bi-amp settings at the factory presets. The purpose of 'pure' and 'direct' modes is to pass analog (un-digitized and unprocessed) sound to two full range front speakers, especially when using a turntable through the phono inputs. The way this (and most every) AVR is designed, it has to convert the analog signal to digital to implement the LFE (subwoofer) channel and that is usually not desireable when using analog sources. Another side-effect of using 'pure' and 'direct' modes is that the Audyssey room-correction is bypassed. Once you run Audyssey, I think you will prefer the sound using the 'Stereo' mode so that the LFE (subwoofer) channel and the Audyssey room-correction are engaged. Possible exceptions (in addition to using a turntable as a source) are acoustic or chamber music that is recorded well enough to benefit from staying in the analog domain in the AVR. Even then, the D/A converters and the analog section in your disc player (and very good analog interconnects) will have to be better than the Onkyo's or there will be no benefit above using the 'Stereo' mode fed by a good coaxial digital cable from your CDP. As you become more familiar with the Onkyo, I think you will find that it is designed very intelligently for the purpose it is intended for - to be a full-featured all-in-one component at a relatively low price point. If you desire more audiophile features and cutting-edge sonics, then consider hi-end HT separates such as Anthem, B&K, Marantz, etc. |
I just got off the phone with Onkyo. They told me you can not hear the sub while listening with Pure Audio and Direct mode. If you have satellites speakers, you need to listen in Stereo mode ONLY for 2 channel music listening. I have to check out the Stereo mode today to see if it will sound any better than Pure Audio and Direct mode. Regarding the DTS-ES, they told me it must be in a 7.1 channel setup to get full DTS-ES sounds. (That sucks!!) So far, the only 2 complaints I have with Onkyo products is that they make you spend more money to full fill their products. Now I will have to buy 2 more surround speakers for a 7.1 setup so I can listen to DTS-ES. I will also have buy 2 full range speakers so I can listen to Pure Audio and Direct mode! I was setting up the receiver last night and I came by the Bi-Amp & BTL Capable. Since my speakers are satellites, do I need to adjust the setting to either Bi-Amp & BTL? My satellite speakers my blow up since it is not full range speakers. My speakers are rated 4 ohm and recommended power rating at 50-150W for each channel. But before I set the receiver to either Bi-Amp & BTL, I wanted to get some advice before I blow up all my satellite speakers!! ha ha ha |
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That sucks!! Another question I have is when I am watching a DVD movie (TOY STORY 2 or Gladiator) with DTS-ES sound track, I don't see the DTS-ES showing on the display window of the receiver. It just shows DTS but not DTS-ES. Is it because I have a 5.1 speaker setup and not a 7.1 speaker setup? Is there a setting with the 905 so I can hear the DTS-ES sound track? |
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If if you listen to 2 channel music using pure audio or direct and there are no bass coming from the sub, than Onkyo did not do their research very well. Most people have bookshelf speakers rather than floor standing speakers. I think it is within the setup that I miss. I know Onkyo engineers are not that stupid. How can they miss on people who uses small speakers with subs. It's not like it is new to the market. The pure audio and the direct mode sounds quite good. My left and right speakers just disappear. The staging and the depth on SACD 2 channel music is simply amazing. My previous receiver was the Sunfire Ultimate Receiver II and I thought that was the best sounding receiver out there. I took a gamble with the 905 and boy what a delight. I just need to figure out how to get the sub to start working while using pure audio and direct mode. I will contact Onkyo to see what they have to say. I would be a SHOCKER if they tell me that there are no sub sound if you are using pure audio and direct mode. |
My Onkyo receiver does the same. In direct or pure audio mode it is only two channel. To get the sub to work you have to choose either stereo or a surround sound setting. Try it and see if yours is the same. The other choice is to use the sub speaker level inputs then out of the sub to the front left and right speakers. This leaves out the others but you would have to choose a surround mode to route all low frequencies to the sub using the crossover setting on the receiver. |
