I'm not sure what would be the purpose.....? |
the purpose would be to do a better job of holding the record without slipping and not striping the plastic threads |
I've heard the 45 RPM clamp VPI sells is better. The knurled knob is kinda dinky, but that's what ya get for $8. The 45 RPM clamp can be bought off eBay for $25-ish. |
I purchased a clamp made out of aluminum from www.ttweights.com for my 16.5 that works very well and I am very pleased with it. |
Thank You Kgturner
I will look into it |
When I am cleaning records with my VPI 16.5, I have never had an issue with the record slipping so I don't see the need. |
As bugman has said, there are other options if you dislike the stock little knurled knob.
One could also probably find a local machinist, and have them machine one for no more than $10 tops. Mark |
"I purchased a clamp made out of aluminum from www.ttweights.com for my 16.5 that works very well and I am very pleased with it."
I have one of these too and HIGHLY recommend it! |
I think the stock clamp works just fine but I have a spare SOTA reflex clamp and I love it, its nice to just pop the lever and put on and off without screwing it down and just incase it also protects label from liquid. |
There could possibly be other causes, if you are regularly experiencing slippage.
Going by memory, I'm thinking that the Spindle is only threaded so far on the shaft, One could possibly shim the Platter on the Platter-Motor Arbor, thus in effect raising the Platter on the Spindle.
Or one could swap the stock Cork Mat, and replace with a thicker Neoprene Mat. Neoprene sheet They can be gotten in 12x12 size from places like McMaster-Carr. Suitable Shore A Hardness, would be between 40-60.
With the stock Cork Mat, I on occasion would get slippage, if I didn't firmly crank down the knob tightly, but since changing to the Neoprene Mat, I never have that problem anymore.
The big metal clamps might look cool, but there's always the potential of accidently dropping it upon the record. There's less likely damage if this occurs with the little Nylon Nut.
The Rubber Mat, IMO killed two birds with one stone, less liklihood of slippage, and a Mat that is much easier to keep clean, and is non-porous. Mark |
JFC!!! ..Get a life!!! ..The plastic clamp works just fine!!! ..If you're not happy, just use your record clamp! Oh, BTW, AJ's Basis clamp will works perfectly... just buy one of those! |
I buy the idea of a clamp covering the label, Chadnliz makes sense there. But I find it is virtually impossible to induce slippage with the stock knob snugged down. I think the amount of pressure required to make it slip would more likely stop the drive motor first....
I would never put that much pressure to cleaning to begin with. I have inadvertantly cleaned records forgetting to put the clamp on, and no slippage noted. |
Wilson
Make sure the flat surface of the clamp is up this should solve the problem. When the other side is up the clamp doesn't hold some records tight. |
Another possible cause of slippage, or maybe a better term could be called siezing.
The Vacuum Wand could possibly be out of vertical adjustment. There is a Collar on the vacuum wand assembly which is adjustable in height, and held in place with an allen set screw.
To adjust, remove Vacuum Wand Assembly, remove Coil Spring.
Now, with a Record on the Platter, swing the Vacuum Wand over on the Record. The collar should be adjusted that the Wand just contacts the record surface. If not, loosen Allen Set Screw on Collar, raise, or lower Collar on the Tube, and tighten Setscrew. Mark |
are you saying an out-of-alignment wand would slip the record??
BTW VPI has a new Delrin wand now, lifetime guarantee, no cracking. |
It's hard to make a case by case determination on each and every machine, if there are those who note seizing, or the record slips, or another result of mal-adjustment of the vacuum tower assembly can be cracked vacuum tubes.
A few months back, Harry W himself described the vacuum tower adjustment on the VA forum which I mentioned earlier.
If the collar is too high upm on the vertical vacuum tube, it will then permit the entire wand to come down further than it needs to onto the record.
With the vacuum pressure to continue to draw the entire wand down past the actual height of the record, this cause excessive pressure upon the record and wand, can be a cause of cracking the wand at its junction, and can perhaps be causing too much friction between the wand, and record to cause siezing, or slippage.
Excessive pressure as well could possibly also cause premature wear of the velvet protective strips.
Thanks for the heads up about the new VPI Delrin Vacuum Wand, will have to research this some more. Mark
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I bought a second hand HW-16 that appears to have been kit upgraded to a 16.5. It has the original foam platter. I've never experience a problem with slipping, but I have had a record or two seized by the vacuum wand. The LP stood still while the platter spun under it. I need to work on the wand's adjustment it appears, but I'll deal with it when my new wand arrives. The used one looks well used. |
Hi Mark,
It's not on their website yet, but if you email them or call Mike you can get one. pending getting stock out to dealers they were doing a bit of a deal on it a month or so back. I think it's going to list around $70 range.
I cracked about a half dozen acrylic wands before finding out about the adjustment of the ring.
Cheers,
finski |
While were talking about the HW-16.5, what is the thickness of the cork mat? I'm thinking of buying a neoprene sheet ala Markd51's mod. Thanks. |
Hello Kgturner.
Not sure of the cork mat thickness, but I suspect it is slightly thinner than 1/16" thick. I have a quite lengthy article about the swap-mod on osageaudio's site, the maker-seller of AIVS cleaning products. The article is under the header of "RCM Museum" on the AIVS main page.
I believe I used 1/16" thick Neoprene Sheet, without a Self Adhesive backing, and used DAP Contact Cement. The first time, I bought self adhesive backed sheet from McMaster-Carr, and the surface was slightly bumpy due to poor adhesion.
It wouldn't have been a problem in use, but it didn't look good, and wasn't to my liking, so I got another sheet without the adhesive backing.
Either 1/16", or 3/32" thickness should be fine.
With Contact Cement Adhesive, the mat will then be basically permanently affixed, but IMO, it will be the last Mat you'll ever need.
Do not forget you'll need to punch holes in the Mat for the Spindle, and also the 3 access Holes for the 3 Screws that fasten the Platter to the Arbor. I used a spent .38 caliber case, with its edge sharpened with sandpaper as a makeshift inexpensive punch.
Just in case you ever have a Platter Motor go bad down the road, you will need to remove the Platter to gain access to the Motor's Mounting Plate Screws. Mark |
