Wall treatments “Asymmetrical”?

The only way to find out is to try it. Go easy, step by step.  Have you measured your room? Do you have nodes you need bass traps for? Do you have less than precise imaging that your Wilsons can do for sure?   Are they less than a couple feet from hard surfaces?  Is your room brighter than you would like?

It depends. 

Thank you for the quick reply and things to consider. 
 

Assuming you mean more than tape measure measurements, how would I best go about measuring my room?

my system sounds really good, not harsh I have a record storage bookshelf about 18” behind speakers the bookshelf is against the front wall

im new to this level of consideration for my listening space but want to maximize my enjoyment. Is there a good read on this or acoustic panel company that can guide me?

"Sound Reproduction" by Floyd E Toole on Amazon for $23 in paperback. It will be the best $23 you ever spend. It should be mandatory reading for all audiophiles, especially those who are dealing with speaker set up. Too much of the stuff you will read here is either uninformed or presented to stimulate commerce.

@sleeeepguy,

See Floyd E. Toole also see below:

Mike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoMeyLeHF0w

Asymmetrical would be ideal, but there are ways to compensate 

M, so tv at right angle to speakers??

Some photos of your system and venue would be really helpful. There is a place under your user ID to create virtual systems.

In general, the biggest challenge will likely be right and left. If there is a lot of space on the right and a close wall on the left… then treatments on the left can equalize the open space on the right.

But I definitely agree… take your time. You can simulate treatments with thick blankets and pillows to shape your sound space before investing in expensive treatments.

@sleeeepguy 

Forget blankets and pillows, if you can afford the Sabrina X, no reason not to experiment with a variety of acoustic treatments. Best way to start is give your room layout to Gik Acoustic and they will give you suggestions for free. Go from there. In my case I ended up with more diffusion than they suggested. They over did it a bit on absorption. Glad to hear you want to pay attention to room acoustics, you can see my setup in my system. It really pays off!

"Sound Reproduction" by Floyd E Toole on Amazon for $23 in paperback. It will be the best $23 you ever spend. It should be mandatory reading for all audiophiles, especially those who are dealing with speaker set up. Too much of the stuff you will read here is either uninformed or presented to stimulate commerce.

@newbee , +1,  I think a lot of it leans towards "commerce stimulation", i.e., the dealers and the appointed pied pipers for certain product and so on ( I doubt some of these guys are all that genuinely uninformed). 

"Just got", as in 2 weeks, 2 days, 2 hours ago?

I ask because if your Sabrina’s sound really good and are only days or even a couple of weeks in, perhaps enjoy them "as is" for a while and maybe just play with positioning/toe in?

Take some time to figure out what may or may not need improving?

As an aside, I was considering Sabrina X and ended up with Harbeth 40.3 XD, and screwed around with speaker position and isolation for weeks, and eventually figured out I had the wrong amp. Expensive mistake. Happy camper now though.

The basic acoustical character of the room is set by its dimensions. It is modified by finishes, furnishings, openings, and such. You also need to consider your floors and ceilings. Treating only the walls may help some, but it's a partial solution at best.

The good news is that it doesn't take that much to make a huge improvement. Most rooms can be done for under $1000 using a kit from someone like Acoustimac. I've used them both in my theater and living room. They use top-qualty nam brand core and cover materials and construction, offer a full palette of colors and textures, and ship quickly. 

@ghdprentice You can simulate treatments with thick blankets and pillows to shape your sound space before investing in expensive treatments.

Good point.  Why waste money?

Get to know the speakers right out of the box. Play with placement for a while. What do you think you are missing? weak bass? harsh treble?, lack of focus?, lack of soundstage? etc.?

I would be inclined to bet that very few audiophiles have a perfectly symmetrical room. My experience is that I never end up with both speakers exactly the same distance, toe-in, etc., from the listening position.

I remember my time with Thiel CS5i's. They lacked a bit of bass and hard to get good soundstage. First step was adding bass traps at ceiling corner of front and side walls. Then more bass traps in corner between front and side walls that were at the height of the speakers.

You get the bass right, the foundation is there for the rest of the sound spectrum, in my opinion.

YMMV.

Great feedback from everyone and I appreciate it.

I ordered the Floyd E Toole Book Sound Reproduction and will start it when it arrives.  I watched the noted YT video and there is so much info I will have to rewatch a few times to fully understand.

I have about 200 hours on my Sabrina's but need to dial in the room. GHDprentice, I like the idea of using pillows and blankets to simulate what expensive panels may do. I will start by moving my sub around as well to see the impact that has. I need to get the bass right as was mentioned to build from that foundation.  

I will post system this weekend in the virtual system area that was mentioned

Thank you all.

If you can, get a test record and sound level meter - it is very useful in setting up your bass, especially when you are trying to blend in a subwoofer and selecting a listening position. Bass nulls and nodes can be killers! :-)

Any recommendations on a Meter or test record? Thank you

FWIW, I used a Stereophile Test CD 002-2 and a Radioshack SLM. Pretty straight forward, but unfortunately ’out of print’. You may find them used however. I’m sure there are probably others, used or new. Try eBay and Google if all else fails. On the subject of test CD’s, I also used ’The Sheffield/XLO test and burn in CD’ for set up and to really drill down imaging with a super CD, "Test Record 1" by Opus3. It came out on CD but I preferred the LP (or maybe I just liked my system). If your system is maxed out image wise you will be bowled over by the holographic image. A lot of different cuts from a bunch of Swedes in a perfectly mic’d set ups. Give you something to work towards. Probably have to get these on E-Bay.(?).

I’ll start searching and watching Yt videos on how to use a meter like that. Sounds like a fun project. 
thank you Newbee

BTW, FWIW, I just checked EBay and these items are available if you want them. I'm somewhat relieved, I was thinking of loaning you mine. :-)

@newbee thank you for your guidance and thought of loaning me your slm. I’ll find one on eBay. 

@newbee I found both an analog a digital slm on eBay. Is there a guide that can help me understand how to use this tool in dialing in my systems?

I’m not aware of one. It is somewhat simple though. The Stereophile test disc has a set of test tones at various frequencies. You measure these test tones at the listening position using the meter. You can start out with your system set up in a typical triangular configuration and see what your overall frequency response is then move your speakers about (or as likely your listening position!) to smooth out nulls and nodes. There is a learning curve here so don’t expect to get an instant result. It takes a lot of time and patience. Be sure to take notes - I used a graph showing test point frequencies in a form where I got a visual idea of the frequency response. BTW, although you can measure the FR at various locations in your room, for the most part the results are not useful. It is the listening position that counts. I suggest you do some basic research on the internet on using a SLM meter for audio setup - you might hit the jackpot. I don’t know that I would rely on U-tube. But once you have digested all that Toole has to say and figured out how to get started in your room using the SLM and test disc is an excellent way to fine tune your system. You are right, it IS a project! :-) Ask questions, I’ll answer if I can.

BTW there is a tutorial (so to speak) on U-Tube by Audioholic's. I didn't listen to it but you might look at it and see if will help you. I suspect there might be much more.  My Goodle search was for 'speaker setup using a sound level meter'.

@newbee just received copies of some of the suggested Stereophile cds and awaiting a Radio Shack Analog SLM, but I need to understand how the sound meter measures decibels and how that relates to setting up bass response??  The only videos that I’ve come across for use of the slm, shows people measuring how loud their exhaust system is on their vehicles. 
the only thing I can imagine is that you play various tones on your system and try to get them to produce the desired decibel level?? 
am I on the right track? 
thank you  again and again 

Wrong track, I think. Firstly, did you google the Audioholics spiel on U Tube. As I said I didn't watch it at all except for perhaps the first 10 seconds, but he did start describing a use procedure which I thought might answer your preliminary questions.

Basically the Stereophile disc will have test tones (pink noise) at various frequencies, starting at 1kh and going down in 1/3d hz increments to 20hz. Once you set up your speakers and listening chair in a reasonably good sounding set up which I assume you have achieved after digesting Floyd Toole's book and working on a good set up, you place the meter at the apex of the triangle (on the back of the chair, preferable at seated ear height, will work but a tripod would work better (and the meter has a provision on its back for attaching to a tripod). As I recall you set the meter for C weighting and then commence playing the CD at normal volume. When the CD starts playing you get instructions and information about volume adjustments and some phasing information. Then there are 13 cuts of recorded music and ultimately the test tones. The purpose of using these test tones is to measure your speakers output at the listening position. The are likely to reflect the nulls and nodes in the various frequencies as heard  at your listening position. For example if your speakers sound bassy/boomy in the bass you may find that your listening position is in a bass node and compared to other adjacent frequencies is objectionable. You can alter this response by using an external crossover, or more simply moving your listening position forward or backward. You can also affect the bass response, as you probably already know, by speaker placement, as well as the higher frequencies. It's all a dance so to speak and you'll never get a perfect set up but it's better in setting up your system than just using your ear and not having a clue what is caused by your setup to sound as it does.

The meter itself is not a correction device. Just a tool. The ultimate goal would be to create a frequency response, either by speaker movement, chair movement, or an equalizer, that reflects a sound you would enjoy more. Some folks want a flat frequency response, some like one with a rising bass and a drooping highs, others would like a flat bass and rising highs. Get all of your stuff together and play with it. Take your time, this is a lengthy process but the opportunities.

Forgive me for making redundant comments, I realize that my previous post covers most of the territory and I just trying to reemphasize them.