What is the science behind audiophile fuses?


There were many threads on the topic of "audiophile fuses" on this forum, and I sure don't want to open old wounds and trench warfare. The fuse on my preamp blew suddenly two days ago, which prompted me to search for a replacement. That's when I came across the term "audiophile fuse" and the fact that they demand far-out prices. Deeper curiosity brought me to several other fora, where users posted glowing praises about their Zero fuses and other exotica. Now I am a scientist, but not a physicist or electrical engineer: so please enlighten me! How can a fuse have an audible influence on the signal, when the signal does not even pass through it? How can a fuse be "directional" when it deals with alternate current? I mean, if I recall my university physics, a fuse is basically a safety valve and nothing more. Am I completely missing an important point here? My scientific field is drug discovery, and because of this background I am thoroughly familiar with the power and reality of the placebo effect. I that's what I am seeing here, or is it real physics? I need objective facts and not opinions, please. I really appreciate your help!

 
128x128reimarc

@reimarc -

     If your ears and system could determine/resolve the difference in presentation, between the mentioned XLRs; I'll bet that you'd appreciate what better fuses provide.

      As I mentioned: some come with a 30 day, satisfaction guarantee.

      Were you to feel them not worth the $$, you'd lose nothing but the time and postage expended, to return them/it.

       As an inquisitive scientist, isn't your interest piqued (that much)?

       If there's a Hi-Fi Tuning Gold fuse that fits your amp: $49.95* is all it would cost to sate any curiosity.

                 *ie, scroll down this page: https://www.vhaudio.com/fuses.html

        more: https://highend-electronics.com/collections/audiophile-tuning-fuses

@tksteingraber realize that the fuse replacement is just a short piece of conductor adjacent to the power cable.  I don't think you'll ever hear a significant effect fro different coppers on such a short piece of conductor, just so it is heavy (not thinwalled tube).  Now often the fuse holder is not great--it can't be soft copper or it will relax and not clamp the fuse.  Often they are .....clears throat....whispers....steel.  so a good fuse holder would be where to focus your interest. 

That said, I'm as audiophile geek as anybody so I buy high conductivity copper 5mm bar from McMaster car, cut it into fuse lengths on my lathe, and polish with scotchbrite.  I'll be glad to send you one if you want one.

Jerry

@carlsbad2...when you mentioned 'slug', 1st thought 'metal bar, low gauge copper'; 2nd, a diy from an earlier 'confounded fused flail' that 'appeared' (not sounded, yet) worth spending less time on than you do...

But I applaud your efforts to fab and take a Good Slug @ it... aesthetics do count even for a lowly slug... ; ) 👍

3urd was 'homeless snail', soon to be ' budget escargot' ='d *bleah*🙄

@reimarc ....If 'lectric exotic at the super bunting autopsychoic sounds like fun:

0>60 under 2, 0>100>0 under 8 ; seconds, street version pending if not out already... 

The budget 2 wheel version:

...all it lacks is 110db air horns....  My 1st personal diy option...; )

@reimarc The power supply doesn’t merely allow proper operation, it is that which is the source of the actual music. Simply put, the amplifier circuitry modulates the flow of that power through the speakers. Ceteris paribus, the better the power supply, the better the sound.

not the signal circuit itself but the part that supplies the power for proper operation.

I don’t know how to make a good sounding fuse, but I have discovered that a cracked fuse holder can make most any fuse sound bad.

If a system is intended to be used at a level well below its capabilities to deal with current, then it makes building the fuse easier, it would seem. The fuse can be set to pop at a much, much higher current level than any normal listening session would produce. So the fuses internal resistance and any audible compression effects from the fuse beginning to heat can be minimized. I used to have some piezo compression drivers that had little light bulbs in them that acted as fuses of sorts. Instead of blowing, they would take to glowing, which would effectively compress the output to the tweeter. This is fine for a PA system but probably not acceptable to most HiFi enthusiasts.