Can you explain just what is used in fuses to create the different amperage ratings that then influence failure at the indicated rating? From pictures, I have always thought that the filament sizes/widths are increased to achieve the higher ratings in otherwise same-type fuses, and this would to my thinking also indicate a reduction in resistance or, as you stated, more of a straight wire approach.
That sounds exactly right to me, JA. And that is borne out by examination of the detailed technical datasheets that are provided by the leading manufacturers of non-audiophile fuses. Within a given series of fuses, that are similar in most respects other than their current ratings and "melting points," resistances become progressively lower as current ratings increase.
I’ll add that I would expect in general that the characteristics and behavior of fuses in speaker applications figure, IMO, to be much more critical than in the case of many and probably most electronic component applications. First, it doesn’t seem highly unreasonable to expect the small fraction of an ohm resistance of these fuses to constitute an audibly significant fraction of the impedance of many speakers. And of course fuses in passive speakers (and some fuses in active speakers) directly conduct the audio signal, or at least some of its frequency components, as opposed to a mains fuse or a DC rail fuse in a component. Also, since the resistance of a fuse varies somewhat as a function of the amount of current it is conducting, the fluctuations of that resistance as a function of the dynamics of the music will be greater in a speaker application than in the case of most electronic component applications. With the fluctuations in themselves perhaps having audible consequences. Finally, in the case of mains fuses in electronic components, if the AC line voltage at a particular location happens to be significantly greater than whatever voltage the component was designed to sound best at (presumably 120 volts in most cases, for equipment sold in the USA), it seems conceivable that more fuse resistance could actually sound better than less, since it would result in slightly less voltage being applied to the component. But that possibility would not be applicable in the case of a fuse in the audio signal path of a speaker.
... are you thinking of accepting the SR fuse challenge in one of your own components?
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I suspect I’ll give one of the SR black fuses a try at some point, probably initially in my CDP. But right now and in the coming weeks I’m focusing on other priorities in my system, including a repair the CDP is undergoing, a repair I’ll be attempting to do myself on my vintage tuner, and break-in of my AT-ART9 cartridge and subsequent finalization of the related tonearm adjustments.
Best regards,
-- Al
P.S: Thanks very much to Charles for the kind words he posted yesterday.